replace pinion seal

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ditto.....what you said....

ANY...information is greatly appreciated!

year make model

would be greatly appreciated at a minimum.

A question for you, that I have'nt asked anyone in LONG time, if i may...??.....

If you're going to persist on working on areas of your vehicle where technical specs are needed, and proceedure outlines are necessitated.......and ARE investing in the tools needed to perform the tasks......

why don't you invest in a book that would save you hours, if not days on repairs?

Pure curiousity I asure you. no flame intended. And yes, i understand you have hope that others here can help you and you intended no harm by asking. And yes, i understand that you know how to use the archives in an NG. And yes, i understand that you are QUITE capable of performing a "google" on your question.

still....

i'm curious.

:)

~:~ MarshMonster ~sips his crownroyal~ ~:~

I do have the big red toyota shop manual. Book shows max torque of 253 ft-lbs, but no minimum torque.

Marsh M> =====

o

I will tell you what I have done for over 30 years on many kinds of rear axles and it works great. (I did not invent it either as someone else told me about it long ago) Before you remove the pinion nut, scribe a line across pinion shank and nut as a referance point mark and then remove nut. After removing yoke and replacing seal replace yoke and nut and tighten to the marks line up again as this will reset preload to the same it was before you took it apart. BTW, it you are one turn to loose you will know it because pinion with be loose and you would have a very hard time getting it one turn too tight because even if you could the bearings would be preloaded so badly that you would not be able to turn pinion.This method work very well as long as you are not replacing pinion bearing, nut or yoke (with yoke changes there could be a minor difference in its thickness) One more thing with you tighent a pinion nut otherwise you tighen it to a certain amount of preload on bearing (effort in inch lbs required to turn it) not "X" amount of foot lbs on the nut.

----------------- TheSnoMan.com

=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D

Sno, you know I like you dude...but.....jest to get you to think'n bout what you jest stated......

think about this......

1) Castle nuts on suspension and drivetrain parts that carry a specific torque.

2) Why using a "new" nut is usually normal required practice for high torque scenarios, as outlined by the parts manufacturers and technical writers. (whoever the hell they may be) Things like CV Axle nuts, pinion nuts are almost always suggested as replacement items during servive work. (or that's been my experience)

3) I have to grind OFF at least one thread on EVERY Chrysler torque convertor bolt I reused or take the chances that the converter housing will get dimpled. (this is a simplification of what i'm try'n to get across)

googles will lend itself to more examples.....

anywhoooo.... It is a WELL known fact that metal doesn't compress. But....give it a rite smart tug and see what happens.

Threads stretch. fact...not fiction.

~:~ marsh ~sips his mushroom tea...pours you a crown n coke.~ ~:~

This is true but in the case of a pinion, you must be very carefull because nut position on the shaft controls preload. Most of them have a crush sleeve of some sort that the nut torques against so it does not loosen but the ultimate goal is the desire preload because bearing are "crushed" between pinion head and nut. (some use a castle nut) With a gear or bearing change you measure preload with a inch lb wrench. The reason you mark the shaft is so that you get preload back to same spot when doing a seal change

This is true but this is for items where bearing preload is determined by nut torque.

If this happens it is because bolts where torqued beyond their yeild point and stretched a bit. When a bolt has streched it is time to consider replacing it.

Actually it can compress when it starts to reach yeild point though this amout is very minute. The amount of compression and stretch is determined by materail used and being "bolted" together and the fastners (bolts) themselves with their "torque". This stretch/compression help keep the nut tight.

----------------- TheSnoMan.com

Great information. Unfortunately the nut was removed without counting the turns or marking the pinion shank.

I guess the only thing to do now is to continue tighten the nut (load the bearing?) and measure the preload with torque wench (in-lbs).

Can this be accurately measured with the rear end jacked up and tires > >

No.