Old Chevy guy here, used to tightening belts with a cheater bar.
Power steering belt snapped. Is the tensioning screw the one in the middle of the idler pulley? Is there a nut on the underside, or just a matter of turning the capscrew until desired tension. Is there a lock nut?
Thanks
Not the bolt that holds the pulley to the frame, but the one on top of the housing is what I meant for the adjusting screw.
Fracka Rakkas!!
Been there, Done that - still have to on the Corvair, that's the only way...
IIRC on a 22R the bolt in the middle of the pulley releases the slider block from the bracket, and there's a separate tensioner jackscrew that moves the whole pulley up and down in the slides to adjust the tension. Then you lock it back down with the center bolt.
Oh, and either go get a belt tension gauge tool (Krikit) or read up on belt tensioning. Too tight is much worse than too loose - you start killing alternator, water-pump, PS Pump and idler bearings. Whichever one is weakest and/or most expensive and difficult to fix.
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Thanks guys!!
That was LOTS easier than the old cheater bar method. ;)
Mark
The Toyota Engineers aren't as think as you dumb they are... Or something like that...
The GM engineers probably came up with something similar, but the change was voted down by upper management because it would cost a whopping 20 or 25 cents more per car built to implement.
And making incremental design improvements like that would increase overall reliability, which is a bad thing when GM wants to sell people a new car every three or four years like clockwork - they want to convince the owners that at 100,000 Miles any car on the road is worn out, totally unsafe to drive, and ready to scrap.
Cynical? Me???
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