Bug keeps dying

Hi all-

I'm still having issues with my '73 Super. The car died on me last 2 weeks ago. Last weekend, I cleaned the dist. cap and she turned over. I changed out the rotor, cap and points. Today, I checked the dwell, which was 25 degrees exact. The idle was set to 800 RPMS (which seems to be the highest setting I can get it to). I also, set the timing to

5 ATDC (dual vac hoses). I took her for a 3 mile test drive and she was running well. I then took her for another test drive on a more open road and got her up to 50 MPH. She died on me again in the same fashion after about 6 miles.

All of a sudden there is a loss of acceleration and then she dies. I checked the engine bay and the center wire from the coil looked a soupy, almost like it was melting. The engine overall did not seem any hotter than normal. In the past few months I have changed the oil with

20W-50 Castrol High Mileage, replaced the ignition wires, replaced the points, rotor, amd cap. Any thoughts?

Looking back through the archive of this group, I'm thinking a bad coil. But is there anything else I should look into? Maybe the condensor?

Thanks in advance for any help. If I can't figure it out myself, it's going to a mechanic.

Houdsie

Reply to
Houdsie
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Did you set the point gap properly? lubed the distributor shaft where the points ride against it?

jan

Reply to
Kidd

I did set the point gap to the correct setting. I did not grease the connection point, though.

Reply to
Houdsie

if it was bone dry, and the shaft had like surface rust on it, it would eat the points friction bit pretty fast, and the gap would eventually close.

How about gas tank ventilation? The next time it happens, RUN to the gas cap, and open it. Hear a sudden whoosh of air rushing IN to the tank? That would mean clogged tank vent line, and it would cause the tank to develop such strong vacuum that the pump can't fight it, and the engine dies when the carb runs out of gas. A possibility?

jan

Reply to
Kidd

My original thought when it died a couple of weeks ago was a fuel issue since I just refurbished the tank in March. But I looked in the carb while pulling the accelerator cable and I can see a shot of gas going in. As for the points, I did forget to grease the distributor and when I tried my roadside repairs, I did see the points had gotten closer. But when I reset them, it still did not fire up.

I have not had a chance to do the coil test yet. Hopefully tonight after the kids go to bed.

Stupid timing question: When I hooked up the timing light, I attached the positive to the positive side of the coil per the instructions. I then hooked the ground to the ground side of the coil (like the dwell meter says). Could this damage to coil at all?

Reply to
Houdsie

Yes, this is a good thing to check. It has happened to me. the carbon cannister clogged somehow. good luck!

Reply to
Crusader george

I had a bug that died all the time.

I kept hoping it would be reincarnated.

It did! It eventually came back as a fire.

Reply to
2

Today, I checked the dwell,

Hi! I got this from Rob and Dave's Aircooled VW Pages.

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Dwell-Tachometer ~~~ Connect the green clip from the dwell-tachometer to Terminal #1 on the ignition coil (the one to which the green wire from the distributor is attached -- it's on the left).

Connect the black clip to ground (one of the bolts that holds the coil to the fan housing is a good place. Make sure the dwell-tachometer wires don't become tangled with the fan belt!).

Start the engine and allow it to warm up.

Turn the Function Selector on the dwell-tachometer to DWELL; observe the reading on the Dwell Scale.

(If your dwell-tachometer doesn't have a 4-cylinder scale, note the reading on the 8-cylinder scale and multiply it x 2).

a. The correct reading is 50o +/- 2o (25o +/- 1o on the 8 cylinder scale). If too high, the point gap is too narrow. If too low, the point gap is too wide. b. Readjust the point gap as necessary. Note: Changing the point gap changes the timing. If you change the gap, be sure to check the timing per Step 6 below. ~~~

Reply to
Jim347a

From

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Set the parking brake firmly and block the wheels. Put the transmission in neutral.

Make sure that the maximum advance timing mark (as determined above) is clearly visible on the crankshaft pulley (i.e., marked with white paint).

Attach the inductive pick-up clip on the timing light around the #1 spark plug wire, close to the spark plug and away from the other spark plug wires to avoid interference. Observe the arrow on the clip pointing to the spark plug (if there is such an arrow).

Power to the strobe light is provided through the red clip. Attach it to the terminal on the right side of the coil (the one with the wires to the automatic choke and idle solenoid -- terminal #15).

Note: If your car is equipped with a Capacitive Discharge Ignition system, power to the coil is provided indirectly through the CDI unit. In this case, just attach the red clip on the strobe light to any convenient 12-volt power source. We use the wire to the automatic choke (though some timing lights, when connected in this manner, will prevent the engine from starting -- for a reason we have yet to determine).

Warning! If you do attach your timing light to the automatic choke connection, be VERY CAREFUL that the wire(s) from the ignition switch do not accidentally become disconnected from the choke connection and drop to touch the alternator body when the ignition is on. If this happens, you will get a shower of sparks, and worse -- you will burn out your ignition switch! (Voice of Experience -- this has happened to me TWICE! You'd think I would learn... I'm getting good at replacing ignition switches!)

Attach the black clip to ground (the bolt on the fuel pump and the rear carburetor nut are a convenient places, but make sure the wire doesn't become tangled with the fan belt!).

Attach the dwell-tachometer in accordance with the idle procedure above.

If you are timing a single-vacuum distributor (i.e., SVDA), the vacuum hose must be removed from the DISTRIBUTOR and plugged so that air will not be sucked into the carburetor. Plugging this line is VERY important

-- the timing will be way off if you don't. Removing the vacuum hose essentially turns the SVDA distributor into a centrifugal-advance distributor, so the primary timing should be maximum advance (e.g., 30o at 3500 rpm).

Note: For BOTH the centrifugal-advance (009) and SVDA distributors -- if there is a vacuum hose running from a port in the intake manifold under the carburetor up to the air cleaner, this hose must be removed and plugged as well, for the same reason. Be sure to plug it such that air will not be sucked into the intake manifold. Summary regarding vacuum hoses during timing: Just make sure the vacuum ports on both the carburetor and the intake manifold are PLUGGED so air won't be sucked in during timing.

Reply to
Jim347a

folks . y'all carry a ABC fire extinguisher.

Reply to
Crusader george

The condenser is the #1 suspect. It may short when it reaches a certain temperature. You should replace the condenser to be sure. The coil may also go bad and create an internal short circuit when it gets hot. Try to swap it with another one.

Don't bother with the dwell angle, just set the points to a 0.4mm gap, that's all that is needed. Then adjust the timing.

Also check the wire that goes to the electric choke and electromagnetic valve. It rubs between the carb and fan housing, and the insulation may be worn causing partial shortcircuit.

Bill, '67 Bug.

? "Houdsie" ?????? ??? ?????? news: snipped-for-privacy@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

Reply to
Bill67

Thanks to everyone for their help and insight. I checked the coil and it was fine, I replaced the condensor and it still wouldn't start. I also opened the gas cap and still nothing. I'm checking the fuel lines (which I don't think are the issue) this weekend when I can take my time. If she still won't start she's going to a mechanic. Thanks again.

Houdsie

Reply to
Houdsie

fuel, proper spark, compression something just isn't right.

I have seen pieces of foil floating in the gas tanks causing mysterious stalling. Those fuel filters installed near the carb help you see if fuel is flowing to the carb. Checking the accelerator pump in the carb helps determine if there is fuel in the carb. You could pour a little gas down the throat of the carb. Of course this is after you have determined that the spark is proper. ;-) My ign points stick open on my '70 T1 engine, but I only run it to move the Beetle around every so many years.

I have also seen people install diesel fuel in their tanks. 8^o

BTW I usually sand the area where the condensor grounds at.

Reply to
One out of many Daves

A big part of learning is admitting your mistakes. Part of helping others learn is to tell your mistakes. I'm embarrased as hell to post this, but I want others to avoid the same frustration I've had. I pulled the tank a couple of nights ago to check for a plug in the fuel delivery. The tank was bone dry. I ran out of gas. My fuel guage still showed 1/4 tank of gas. To my credit, when she died the first time, I did put a gallon of gas in her and she wouldn't start. Why? I don't know maybe vapor lock? I have not put more gas in the tank yet.

So I put the tank back in and she's bone dry still, but the guage reads about 1/4 tank. Before I refurbished the tank, the guage fluctuated a lot. When I started the car, I got an accruate reading all the way down to empty. As I drove, the guage would go up. This is a SB, so I have the 2 floats. Does the shorter arm go on top or under the longer arm? I want to pull the tank 1 more time to adjust the floats before putting gas in it. I will check the guage itself per Speedy Jim's website. Thanks for your help and please don't laugh too much at me.

Houdsie

Reply to
Houdsie

We are lauughing WITH you, I'm sure :)

jan

Reply to
Jan

Hey we appreciate that update! At least you found the problem. ;-)

Reply to
One out of many Daves

did you ever figure out why the dist. wire was melting?

Reply to
187

No. Honestly, the car hasn't been run yet since the last stall out. That comes tonight or tomorrow, weather permitting. I'll keep an eye on it going forward though. My engine always seems to run a little hot. I know it's missing the thermostat and I think a few pieces of tin. I'm hoping to get a new engine next season. I'm looking to get a turn key and make sure it has all its bits and pieces.

Reply to
Houdsie

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