Bummed!

I called the community college today to sign up for one or two classes - Bodywork and Metal Restoration. BOTH CANCELLED! In fact all non-credit auto repair classes are cancelled!

Maybe I'll have to learn how to weld through Shaggie's Online School of Welding.

Anyone a painting expert?

Can you recommend a good book on safe painting at home? If I don't get some expert painting help soon I'm going to resort to Rust-Oleum or Krylon!

Thanks, Dan '73 SB in need of some TLC.

On Thu, 17 Jul 2003 22:32:46 GMT, "Dan Smith" , who was sitting in a corner eating his Xmas pie stuck in his thumb and pulled out a plum and began to run off at the mouth like so:

*deep breathing sounds* Come over to the daaaark side, Dan...

-- Travis (Shaggie) '63 VW Camo Baja...

corrodes the vessel that carries it.

Are you guys really serious about using Rust-Oleum?

Well Darth, er uh I mean Shaggie, I may have to come over to the daaaark side.

I had asked about using Rust-Oleum on here before and was talked out of it. They have a color I really like and the price is right.

Speaking of price, for a 'done right' paint job: primers, enamel, reducers, hardeners - $400+; autobody class - $250+; $650+ just to start!

Without the class (or even with the class) the $400 worth of materials in my hands may look the same as if I had used Rust-Oleum.

How does it look when you're finished?

Thanks, Dan

Bwahahaha! Funny sort of.

Seriously, did you use rattle cans or a spray gun or what?

I think I'm going to strip the paint off the car one piece at a time and paint it. It has the original paint plus another coat on it now so I don't want to paint over that.

Will just about any paint stripper work on car paint?

Never mind Darth. :-)

,

the black on mydecklid is a shade off... cause it's rustoleum... who knows what the otherclack stuff is... that pic was taken several years after the "paint job"the car sat outside... for a LONG LONG time in the elements not gettingwashed... never being waxed... and it still looks like that... too bad thefront end is 6"-12" shorter now :( the car is garaged for the first time nowsince I have owned it... 11 mos tomorrow that she's been parked :(

My main concern is stopping the rust and that's what Rustoleum will give me. Plus I like a couple of the colors.

I just priced Rustoleum products.

1 gallon paint about $20, only 1 needed. 1 quart primer about $8, need 1 or two (?). Acetone to thin paint down for paint sprayer, already paid for. Already have some.

$28 to $36 for materials. Can't beat that.

We plan to move in about 3 years and I'll have a dedicated workshop. Guess I'll try Rustoleum this time and if I don't like it in a few years I'll do it again the 'correct' way.

Thanks for the picture Lauren!

Looks good from here.

On Sat, 19 Jul 2003 15:05:49 GMT, "Dan Smith" , who was sitting in a corner eating his Xmas pie stuck in his thumb and pulled out a plum and began to run off at the mouth like so:

Actually... ;-)

-- Travis (Shaggie) '63 VW Camo Baja...

corrodes the vessel that carries it.

Be careful with the Rustoleum and stopping rust. Not true! I distributed their products for many years and although they do have a rust stopping/converting product the rest of their paint (especially the consumer line like the Home Depot stuff) is nothing more than regular paint. Rust converting paint works well but you need rust for them to work. If you have spots of rust and the rest is still painted then your converter will never dry hard on the painted parts. Besides most of these products come in either black or rusty red. You have to kill the rust first, then prime with a good primer and if you still want to use the Rustoleum you can but it will not hold up as well as a two part automotive paint. If you want to go the inexpensive way I suggest you check out the POR15 products at

They cost more than Rustoleum but way less than PPGand others. They suggest you wash the rusted metal spots with their "MetalReady" product to kill the rust, then apply the POR15. After it dries youcan apply their one part primer and sand your body smooth with 400 grit.After, you can apply any paint you want. As for the amount you willneed...... Depends on how thick and if you have a conventional or HVLPspray gun. The HVLP will use about 40% less than conventionals do. I justpainted my 72 and used 2 quarts of fill primer, 1 quart of sealer and 2-1/2quarts of color. I painted all the exposed interior, trunk and engine area(all over the POR15, 1 quart of each primer and paint) and all of theexterior (sanded bare metal). I applied about 2 coats of each. I have not used POR15 on the exterior but have used the above method inside and in the engine and trunk areas where it has lasted for many years. The only problem your going to have is when you get into your new shop and want to do it the professional way. Sanding POR15 is like sanding granite. It's really hard and it stays that way.

Mike "Dan Smith" wrote in message news:v5dSa.99299$H17.29564@sccrnsc02...

,

THAT'S the one i was talkin about!

Just do a google group search for "rattle can" and you should be able to find the link in the posts.

-- Terry B AKA VDUBBS Buggin in Bama

- vdubbs at highstream dot net64 Bug Rauchen

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