For those of us with the Kymco Torquemeister, do you remember by what factor this tool multiplies force? Assuming it is 9X, do we torque it to
Also, what is the best procedure to check end play? Having that endplay tool bolted onto the case flange, how to we get the crankshaft to slide back and forth in order to measure the 0.004" play?
Thanks a bunch,
Paranoid in CA '74 Super Beetle
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All torque-multipliers work on the same principle. The ratio is the distance from the mid-point on the face of the gear tooth to the center-line of the crankshaft; should be about 5.5 for the VW tool (ie, about 40 ft-pounds at the input to get 215 at the output).
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Do it during pre-assembly when you check the fit of the bearings. That way there's no drag on the crank from the rods; you should be able to move the crank back & forth with your hands. (The flywheel does not need to be torqued to spec to determine end-play. Make sure the mating surfaces between crank & flywheel are perfectly true then bring the bolt up snug. The torque is to secure the bolt; it does not effect the diminsion of the fit.)
If you wait until the engine is fully assembled you'll probably have to pry the thing out, use a rubber mallet to make it move in.
-Bob Hoover
On 29 Aug 2004 04:31:32 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com (Veeduber) wrote: ...I have the CIP1 torquemeister knock-off right in front of me and imbossed on it are the words:25lbs torque: 225 lbs 30 lbs. Torque:
270 lbs` I don't have a tape measure handy and just worked 12 hours after assemblinbg the engine for my VW up from longblock (assembled longblock yesterday) installing, breakijng in cam and driving to work....long story involving me letting a mechanic change the tranny lines on my other car because he only wanted $20 and it would save me laying in teh dirt and cursing.....short side is my other car will be towed here soon and I willsee if I can fix the damage =-( Flip side was its my 36 hour weekend at work and I had to get the damn bug engine that wa scattered across my living room assembeled installed and driving....BTW I LOVED the torquemeister....its very veyr nice not needing to try and stabalize the longblock while torquing the gland nut,.....damn I sjhould have bought thgis years ago....if I could just get my tools back from Mario I'd be in good shape. ;-)...Gareth (slowly rebuilding his tool collection)
Mario seems to have his little fingers in a lot of things..kinda funny.
yea next I'll be accused of crucifying Jesus.
Thanks a lot for your help! While taking it into the house to do some detailed measuring of the tool, I was able to see some instructions embossed on the tool saying that 25 ft/lbs will yield 225 ft/lbs. But I still measured it anyways just to confirm the whole mathematical principle of the thing.
As for the end-play; the pry out/hammer in method of checking clearance seems such a crappy way of doing things. The measurement check out...but, I decided to doublecheck using some plastigage placed between the shims. Putting the flywheel on and off and on again took some time, but it was time well taken for peace of mind in my opinion.
Geoffe Elias
Before starting on this, I would have thought 12 hours would be a lot of time to rebuild an engine. Many weekends later, I realize that 12 hours is a relatively quick job, especially if you managed to do it in at most 2 weekends. Those little details, and doublechecking everything really adds up.
Geoffe '74 Super Beetle
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