Engine Knocks After Oil Change! HELP!

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Dear Tom,

That's an easy one :-)

You changed the oil.

Does the engine have hydraulic lifters? (The filter suggests that it does.)

What oil was it filled with to begin with?

Synthetics are marvelous lubricants... for water-cooled engines. But air cooled engines operate at higher temperatures and have a wider range of tolerances because of it. Some oils are simply unsuitable for Volkswagens and that marvelously expensive synthetic stuff may be one of them.

The 'knock' (whatever that is) may be due to many things but since the only difference between 1700 miles without a knock and having one is different oil, why don't you buy three quarts of garden-variety straight-weight 30W mineral oil, a new filter, and try it again.

Truth is, I've no idea what the problem is -- the email definition of 'knock' varies from a nuclear explosion to a loose fan belt -- but going purely on your description of the situation it would seem logical to try and re-set the situation to its pre-knock condition and try again.

Good luck with it.

-Bob Hoover

FRAM filters are garbage, and aren't worth the cardboard box they are shipped in. It's likely that the Fram filter is either lacking the anti-drainback valve, or it's there and doesn't do what it's supposed to do (Valve and seal). Get a good filter on there Pronto.

Also, the hydraulic lifter engines DO have a tendency to do the knock thing if they sit unused for a week or so (this is explained in our product description for those engines). The proper filter does help (a lot), as does a quality one. Cut open a Fram and a "good" brand (Amsoil, Wix, Mann, Purlator Gold, etc) and you'll see what I mean.

John Aircooled.Net Inc.

I agree about FRAM filters... I've never experienced a problem with them myself, however I have stayed away from them since I first starting hearing stories... a few buddies here and there who build engines found problems that they attributed to FRAM... then I saw this one day

Though you'll probably never see an issue running a FRAM on a stock motor... I'd rather get something better anyday... I run Purolator or AC Delco on my truck, and a Honda filter on my bike... no filter on my ACVW sandrail motor.

Jon

Just a long shot, but don't those mexibeetles have hydraulic lifters? And if so, especially with synthetic oil, they probably just drained down, sitting for that long. I'd just let it idle for awhile , and I bet they pump up and quite knocking. Just my oil opinion but isn't synthetic awful thin and slippery for an aircooled engine?

Cheers, Leo

Perhaps I was not clear enough.

On the hydraulic lifter engines, if the filter doesn't have an OPERATIONAL (that means there, and doesn't leak) drainback valve, the oil can syphon back to the sump, taking the oil out of th hydraulic lifters tool. So you end up with air in the lifters, and hydraulic lifters don't work very well with air (instead of oil) as a hydraulic medium.

run it and the clattering will go away as they pump back up. but until you change that POS filter, you will continue to have the same problem.

John Aircooled.Net inc.

I have a 99 Mexi open-air and have experienced the same thing. I went to synthetic oil, because I was getting this white foamy build up inside my oil filler cap meaning the oil was getting too hot. When the car sits for a period of time the lifters will knock until they fill back up with oil. What the cure is I don't know. I took mine in and was told to drive it more!! When mine knocks, I just drive it at moderate speed, sometimes maybe 20-30 miles, the lifter knock goes away. I use a VW oil filter, not a Fram. Bruce R. Menomonee Falls, WI

White foamy build up is probably more likely caused by not driving it far enough?...ie..lots of short journeys causing condensation? You are probably not warming your engine up properly. I doubt you would get foam build up by running too hot

Neil

Do you all fill up the new oil filter with fresh oil before installation? Or is it possible to do that?

I just have to find a Mexi Beetle to own or work on! ;-)

later, dave Reminder........ Before you criticize someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes. That way, when you criticize them, you are a mile away from them, and you have their shoes. Frieda Norris

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So that's what it means, eh?

Hahahahahahahahahahahah a......chack, wheeze....

And the cure is to switch to synthetic oil, huh?

HAHAHAHAHAHAHH.....ah...ha... Whew!

Thank you, Bruce. Best laugh I've had since seeing Saddam without his baseball cap :-)

-Bob Hoover

Bzzzzt! Wrong.

The white, mayonnaise -like goo inside the breather tube and inside the filler cap is caused by water, and TOO LOW oil temperature.

If you drive mainly short distances, the water that normally ALWAYS condenses inside the engine case, will never evaporate completely. It will start to mix with oil and that's what the white goo is. The engine needs to run at normal operating temperature for longer periods of time every now and then, for the water to evaporate. Your oil has been TOO COLD. You would also benefit from increased case ventilation.

Changing the oil was a good idea nevertheless. But the white stuff will keep coming back unless you start driving longer distances, with adequate oil temperature.

Jan

Yes and yes.

Jan

Now now Bob,

Take a deep breath, count to ten, and drink a glass of water while standing on your head..... ;)

Now tell me, doesn't it feel great to release all those endorfins due to Laughing Out Loud? :D

Jan

it's also commonly caused by owners or "mechanics" that try to "improve things" by removing the flaps, or disabling the stock thermostat. 5000 wet noodle lashes. KEEP THE FLAPS AND THERMOSTAT!

Most owners are also amazed once they realize the heat output goes up about

50F when the thermostat is there and working! It doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out that if it's 110F out and the flaps are open and the engine is OK, it's going to run a lot cooler if it's 20F out with the same flaps open. DUH! yet guys remove them to "improve" the operation of the car.

Darwin?

John Aircooled.Net > > I have a 99 Mexi open-air and have experienced the same thing. I went to

Jan, Thanks for your constructive comments. I do drive short trips so that may be the cause. What is the best oil for these engines for summer driving? I've heard several different stories on this. X-mas greeting to you all, even Saddam Bob

almost any brand (except the cheapest ones) and 20W50 or straight 30 weight for summer.

Jan