Just wanted to post an update to my problem incase someone has a similar problem. My Bus would just cut out completely at random times and if left in gear would not jump start the motor back on again (ignition was totaly dead). So I had to turn the ignition off and then back on again which always got it running again at least until the next time it would cut out.
The problem was with the Pertronix igniter I was using. After trying several other "fixes" without results, putting the points back in fixed the stalling. The wires to the unit seemed fine because I tried manipulating them every which way without inducing the stalling symptom so it must be something inside the unit. It is still under warranty so I am exchanging for another one. I just hope the new one doesn't give me any problems.
We had a similar problem with ours in our 69 bug. I forgot about it until you mentioned it. We removed it and installed points, and have never put it back in. I just bought a 71 bus, and it runs so well with the points, I dont think I'll bother replacing them either. I'll just carry an extra set.
The thing is that the last 2 years that i've been running without points, I forgot what a pain in the ass points can be. I can't wait to get them out again. With the points, I had to adjust the gap and timing about once a month. With the electronic ignition I only had to set it up once in 2 years. Too bad about the cutting out though it did run great for almost a year before the problems started. I have to wonder if I could have overheated them because I didn't know utill recently that leaving the ignition on without running the engine can overheat and damage the electronic unit as well. There were a few times that I left it on for a significant amount of time while testing other electric systems. Then I got paranoid thinking about how long the mechanic probably keeps it on while testing the lights, horn, windshield wipers, directionals etc. during the yearly inspection!!! Man I can't stand the thought of any mechanic touching my old cars. I can do everything to repair my own cars so I never need an auto shop. It really sucks having to give my car to some stranger with probably no clue or respect for aircooled VWs just to get a stupid inspection.
Y'know you could adda switch to shut off the ignition. Easiest is to pull the primary wire off the coil, but if you don't have a spade connector there, it's a pain. If you added a relay back in the engine compartment (inline in the existing wire to coil) and run a light gauge wire to the front, add a switch to charge the relay coil from a circuit that is hot only when switch is on... hide the switch where it is easy to reach in normal driving position but hard to see... it's now an anti-hijack switch as well. To further enhance the circuit, add a time delay into it and an indicator light where you can see it. The time delay will shut the ignition off when the hijacker gets a block away from you... Anyway, it's easy to add a switch circuit for just the ignition.
BTW - When I cooked one of my Pertronix units a few years back, it was very obvious! If you have to adjust your points that often, you need a better lubricant for the point cam / rubbing block. I used to have to adjust often, then I tried a few different lubricants on there and I think I ended up using a light smear of Hy-Per-Lube or Power Punch (same product.) I also used anti-sieze compound for a while and it worked very well.
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