Generator Red Light -- all ready?

I have a 68' bug with a 1500 engine in it. Several years ago I started experiencing some electrical problems and I went on a rampage of replacing old and word out parts. I replaced the generator with a rebuilt/refurbished one which didn't do much other than sit in a garage for two years. I have probably only been driving on this generator for 18 months or so.

Last week I was driving home and got the red light on the dash. This caused a bit of panic because I couldn't remember if the oil pressure light was red or green! After checking the Muir book at the roadside, I continued home to do some testing.

The first thing I noticed was that my brushes were pretty worn and didn't have a lot of push left in them. So dropped the 8 bucks and installed a new pair. They weren't a perfect fit and required a bit of work on the grinder to get them to install. Alas, they seem to "work". But I still have a red light on the dash.

Next I performed Speedy Jims instructions for polarizing the generator. After hooking everything back up, I still get a red light.

If I test the ohms between the DF and DT poles while running, I get about a 1.8. I believe this is supposed to read 3+? Voltage-wise, I only get 11.68v while the engine is running so I know I am not charging correctly.

I have also removed the regulator and inspected it for damage, or loose connections. I see nothing of the sort. But I suspect my generator is defective.

Is is a safe assumption that my refurb was a bad build, and is effectively dead? I never got any warning signs as far as light-glows or red light flickers. It went from never lighting up - to a dead on glow. This rather sucks, because I don't want to drop another $150 on a new one!

-Steve Ballantyne

68' Bug
Reply to
steve.ballantyne
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did you spin the generator w/o the regulator in the circuit./ Do it briefly. I think most books and Speedy tell you how to do this.

Reply to
A Veteran

Yes, I unhooked the wires going to the generator (from the regulator). Then grounded the right side and ran the left back to the battery. It spun pretty good. I let it go about 4 seconds, and then hooked everything else back up. It didn't seem to have any effect.

Also, here is something that may be worth mentioning ... I went out on a trip on Friday night and the light went out briefly when I was rolling at about 40mph, then came back on after about two miles. Odd. Seems like if it were dead it would just be *DEAD*. But then I don't know what is going on inside of that thing. I suppose it could be a coil coming loose, etc.

-Steve Ballantyne

68' Bug
Reply to
steve.ballantyne

Somehow in all of this, I had forgotten that I have an almost complete spare engine in my basement. I bought it simply to "move a car" about two years ago while my current engine was being rebuilt. So, I stole the generator from that engine and put it on my daily driver.

With this generator, I performed the Speedy Jim procedure. First, I polarized the generator. Then I left DF shorted to ground, and I ran the engine with the belt on. My multi-meter read about 35.5V which as I understand - is a GOOD generator! Then I reconnected the blue wire to DF, and reconnected my red wire to DT. Now with a running engine I get ... 1.6 volts or so.

What gives? Testing voltage at the battery I am getting about 11.45 volts. This seems to be enough to keep the car operational, but I want to fix this before I end up stranded. :-)

Anyone have any ideas for me? Could this be a grounding issue? I notice that there is a spot for a grounding bolt on this generator, which I don't have going anywhere. The old one was not grounded to anything either though. Would it hurt anything to run a ground from the body of the generator back to the ground on the battery -- just to see if the voltage jumps up?

-Steve Ballantyne

68' Bug
Reply to
steve.ballantyne

Yes, 35.5V shows the Gen is OK.

I think you may have the wiring to it confused though.

Should look something like this:

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The Blu wire goes to Term #61 on the regulator, not to DF on the Gen.

(BTW, the terminal on the Gen you noted as "DT" is probably "D+". I'm not being fussy; just so you know...)

If you wire it like my sketch and it still doesn't charge, suspect a bad regulator.

Speedy Jim

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Reply to
Speedy Jim

$80 to $150 saved! :-)

Ah, you are correct. My old generator was rippled in an odd way that made it hard to read the engraved labels.

I seem to be wired correctly, with the exception of the beige wire in your sketch. This looks like a "shortcut ground wire" of some sort. Is that the idea? I don't have one of those, but the generator stand seems to be providing a good ground, so I don't imagine I need it.

Is there any good way to *test* the regulator? I hate to drop $40 on one without knowing for sure. :-(

As always, thanks for the good advice from everyone!,

-Steve Ballantyne

68' Bug
Reply to
steve.ballantyne

As long as the regulator frame is grounded, the Brw wire isn't really needed. (there was earlier discussion about its purpose...) If in doubt, connect a jumper lead.

No, there's no simple test for the regulator. Maybe an auto parts store could test it?

Generic regulator should be about $25.

Jim

Reply to
Speedy Jim

I found varying prices but it starts around 30 bucks, and goes up from there. Same part, according to the pictures/part number anyway.

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$29.95 Mid-America wants $32.99 CIP1 wants $28.95

I've had really good luck with the Bughaus, and I've visited their retail store in Tulsa. Nice place, a bit small but they have a lot of selection.

As always, it pays to shop around, read return policies and such. The basic homework stuff.

Chris

Reply to
halatos

Bughaus is my first stop on any parts. Eric's great to deal with, and almost always has the stock type parts I need. I can only think of one item he was out of when I needed it.

His web site is also one of the best I've seen for VW parts, quick and easy to find the parts you need.

Les Tulsa, Ok

Reply to
Project Magnet #1

GOOD CALL on the Generator everyone!!

I checked around all the usual places, including Bughaus. I found that I could get one as cheap as $5 on eBay ... but I would rather get something of decent quality that will give me many more years. I found that one of my local autoparts stores, O'Reilly Automotive was able to order it for me and have it the next day, for $32.00. It's made by a company called "BWD Automotive" which I figured was their house brand.

Here's a link to what I got:

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I stopped by after work today and picked it up from the store. What a piece of work this thing is!! If we are equating weight to quality -- this thing is a real gem. Very finely manufactured. And here's a real shocker for you ... it was made in the USA! It seems that the BWD stuff is known for good craftsmanship and also carries good warranties (this one is lifetime).

Anyhow, it went right in place of the dead Bosch and away I went with my red light OUT. The battery is happy to be getting charged again. And the Bug is happy to be back on the road after a couple days off.

Thanks again for all the good advice, and I will be sure to check out bughaus for my next project ... which is looking like it will be a clutch pad. ;-)

-Steve Ballantyne

68' Bug
Reply to
steve.ballantyne

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