Hesitation

This is a bone stock, all original 36HP '59 ??? Nothing changed (except the fuel pump)??

Sorry, forgot to mention.

Roger

Stalling in the turn may be a clue. To me, that suggests the carb is running very lean (power circuit, not the idle). This might be caused by dirt/sealant in the Mian jet. It can also be caused by the float valve maintaining too low a level of fuel in the bowl.

I think I would begin by taking the carb apart and blowing the jets/passages out with compressed air.

Thanks Jim. I was hoping it would be something (simple) like that, but could not put a finger on it.

Thanks again and i'll let you know what comes out (busy right now)

Roger

Hey Jim,

I cleaned out the carb today, lined up the main jet carrier (lining up the hole of the main jet carrier with the hole in the carb housing by turning the carrier ccw) Tightened the solenoid (was hand tight) and re-installed the lot. When putting back the carb on the inlet manifold i noticed the solenoid was sitting on the generator. Is this a problem? Anyhow, the car drove perfect after cleaning the lot but after another drive the lack of power was back as never before!

It even backfires when accelerating (80km in third, hughe lack of power at higher revs) ánd decellerating. There is a little leak in the excaust due to a bad seal and clamb. This is from day one though and it ran perfect before so i don't think this is the reason...

The latest thing i have done is loosned the valves a little (0,02mm slith through easily)

Is my problem still fuel related or will re-adjust the valves, changing the plugs do the trick? Or is it wondering in the dark? I must say it díd run fine for about a half an hour, so it sounds like i'm in the right direction....

Cheers Roger

If it ran for half hour, you must have solved the problem and then something happened. Same thing happened or different "thing"?

Could be yet another lump of dirt got stuck in the carb.

Put 2 gaskets under the carb to raise it up a bit so the solenoid has room.

I think I would blow the carb out again as the first step.

Ok, thanks for the (speedy) advise.:-) I have a half day off on friday so i'll do it then, when i'm at it, i'll change the plugs and do the valves again, a little tighter though (massive backfire related?).

Thanx, Roger

I'm sorry to butt into this conversation (yea right, haha!)

But did you make a typo there, perhaps you meant to say 0.20mm?

The proper clearance for aluminum pushrods in a fairly stock engine is

0.015 would go to ZERO when the engine warms up, and you would get leaks.

It works the other way with steel pushrods, then the clearance gets bigger as the wngine gets hotter. It's because they have different thermal expansion.

Jan

Yes you are right, i meant 0.20mm. I think they are too lose now. will make a tight 0.20mm next friday Thanks for the correction.

Roger