trans. fill plug to tight?

who screws these plugs in so tight? I would suggest to all that have the engine out. to loosen these plugs. I mean, has anyone have this fill plug drop out ????

Reply to
troll
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Next, try the two drain plugs..

J.

Reply to
P.J.Berg

well, at least with those plugs, you can get some leverage and it doesn't matter if the engine is in. and BTW I meant "too" tight. Mea Culpa

Reply to
troll

It helps having the correct tool also, they are tight and easy to ruin.

J.

Reply to
P.J.Berg

Sorry gents, just seeing if I,ve sorted this PC. If only MS was a stable as a T3! John

Reply to
John

Got it, the sod works again. For info if you get a "server error 441", try deleting the outbox.dbx file. The file is restored next time OE is used. File gets corrupted and you cant post anymore Kohn

Reply to
John

If you have access to an impact wrench and the 17mm 'socket' style tool you can break them free easily but make sure you turn it in the right direction. You can crack the transaxle case if you overtighten the plug (read: don't turn it in too far with an impact running the wrong direction).

Oh almost forgot...clean all the dirt out of the plug first so the tool bottoms into the plug completely. They're easy to tear up. It is a tapered thread so install them by hand. You don't need to use the "Tight as you can get it, plus one turn" mentality when putting them in.

Good luck with it.

Chris

Reply to
halatos

"troll" schreef in bericht news: snipped-for-privacy@sn-ip.vsrv-sjc.supernews.net...

Lemme guess.... you drained the oil before loosening the fill plug??

Reply to
bug '59

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Idiots (ie, about 85% of VW owners).

Proper tool is the 17mm Allen wrench in the official VW tool kit.

With jack-stands under the axles and the front wheels blocked, insert the Allen wrench OVER the tranny horn so that the short end is pointing down. Use a section of pipe (square tubing works too) about a foot long as a cheater. You want to rotate the cheater to the REAR to unscrew the plug. Be careful not to drop it on you.

Best way to block the front wheels is to fabricate a circular wedge about 4" high as wide as the tires tread and about 6" long. Assuming you are on CLEAN concrete, GLUE the blocks to the concrete, behind the wheels, using Bondo or similar body putty. You should have about 24 sq.in. of contacting surface. Bondo is good for about 300 psi in shear when fully cured. Dirty concrete, use a hammer-drill to install a pair of threaded inserts to accept 1/2" bolts behind each wheel.

Black-top, you can't sink/glue anchors so you use your jack. Install the Allen wrench so that the cheater is pointing toward the rear at an angle sufficient to allow you jack to slide under the end of the cheater (you may need a shorter cheater). Then just pump/crank the jack.

If you are using a 5/8" coupling nut and a long box-end wrench, you will have to install it so that the wrench falls BETWEEN the side of the tranny and the tranny horn, otherwise everything stays the same.

The worst offenders for over-tightening the tranny's plugs are those quicky lube places. They usually miss have the Zirk fittings and damage everything else.

-R.S.Hoover

Reply to
Veeduber

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