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Type 4 1800 motor into 71 bus. help?

Hi,

I am looking at putting a type 4 motor into the first series of a bay window bus, and am wondering if it can be done. That is the bus with the small tail lights and the indicators down low at the front.

The bus is located 300km away with a blown motor (hole in case) and I have a complete good 1800 and 002 trans here.

I have clearanced the bellhousing for the 215mm clutch and flywheel, that was no problem and all works well.

I can fabricate a rear engine hanger without a problem, and I can modify an exhaust system to fit if I must.

It also seems some body panels (the unboltable ones) must be cut and trimmed to clear the fan housing of the type 4. That would appear straightforward. I can make a seal if I must, but it looks like a late bay window bus seal will work.

I have some questions that I am stumped on?

How can I put a bearing into the flywheel of the type 4 motor to support the gearbox shaft?

Can an 1800 (002) trans be put into this model of bus? How? The mounts are different. Can the nosecones be swapped? Any issues with the linkage or length of trans?

Can the input shaft of a 002 trans be put into the original 71 gearbox? I know you can swap the input shafts on the later 1600 trans easily.

Does the type 4 motor physicaly fit between the chassis rails? My initial measurements show it will be tight.

Is there anything I have overlooked?

The purists will hate me, but my experiences with the "big block" motor have always been much better than the 1600 motor in all aspects not just the driving! They seems to require less rework when overhauling, the heads and cases of 1600's seem to be junk after about

2 rebuilds. Parts for the 1800 may be dearer, but long term, it works out cheaper because you don't need near as many parts. Not to mention time before overhaul is longer! My garage is filling up with junk 1600 parts!

Or should I just go all out and hack the bus to pieces and mount that subaru motor in?

Would be great to hear from someone who has done this conversion,

thanks Craig

Reply to
Craig Baker
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Hi Craig, Of course it can - like anything; it just takes time and money! If you want my opinion, then don't do it! I have shoehorned a 2ltr engine and gearbox into a '68 Kombi - the very first 'bay window'. The main reason is the chassis is narrower and the distance between the rear torsion tube to the rear hatch is shorter.

???? what bellhousing do you have?

yes

it will fit

It is not straightforward

Yes you must!!!

yes

Same bearing for 1700/1800 & 2ltr.

With difficulty, you need to modify the early front transmission mount (1600) to fit the 1800. Fabricate new mount points on the chassis for the middle transmission cross bar. Modify the bottom lip under fuel tank compartment to allow the middle transmission cross bar to fit. The next two points may not be required as I used a 2ltr trans which is 10mm longer. The nose cone selector housing must be shortened along with the selector rod and a new positioning dimple for the coupling. The rear end of the gearshift rod housing has to be shortened.

Yes, along with the reverse idler. But you need to swap the bellhousing also if you are going to use the 1600 box. This will throw the gearing way out - unless you are putting on huge off road wheels.

Yes, but it is very much a shoehorned fit. All the tin ware must be modified and you need to get the engine bay surrounding tin out of a later bus. The rear valance needs to be modified - to get enough room. The oil inlet filler needs to be modified to fit behind the rear valance. Rear engine mount supports on the chassis need to be fabricated - to suit the later cross bar. The rear bumper bar supports need to be modified - to fit round the new rear engine mounts.

The accelerator travel is short by 15mm, so if you want full throttle, you need to modify the arms at the front of the chassis and under the pedal.

These are the things I remember - I did this back in '97.

My advice is to get at least a 1700/1800 bus and then put a 2ltr engine and trans into it.

Agree!

Why not, have seen some great conversions done here in Aus.

that's me

Write to me for any clarification or enquires.

Grahame from Aus

Reply to
Grahame Rumballe

Reply to
ilambert

Hi Guys, Your best bet for answers to your questions is going to the T-4 Fourm and posting. Many guys have done the conversion and would love to share their experiances with you.

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wrote the T-4 Upright Conversion Manual and at my site you will findwhy I believe the T-4 is the only way to go for great performance andlong engine life.
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in mind most T-1 powered buses are lucky to reach 60k without arebuild. While the heavier 72 and later buses go over 100k. A T-4 ina bug goes 200k. It is the largest aircooled engine just bolt in. Sure you can go Subaru and they are great engines but think about the WATER and hoses and radiators stuff. Joe

Reply to
Joe Cali Next Generation-usa

Hi Grahame,

Thanks for you reply. It's about all done now.

I am in Sydney, the van in Canberra. Boy was it cold there on the weekend!!

I put a longer input shaft into the trans, but the original idler is still there! This trans does not have the removable bellhousing like the later ones do.

This has the 3 point mounting, no frame horns, no support above the bellhousing.

The sheetmetal on BOTH the motor and body had to be trimmed. The original mount points on the chassis rails were cut off to clear fan housing. There will never be a 1600 there again :(

The rubber mounting blocks on the back of type 4 motor are still there and a fabricated cross brace (modified typo 4) hard bolted to the chassis rails with lengths of 10mm threaded rod. This interferes with the bumper mounts so new bumper mounts still need to be made.

The whole motor and trans combo sits a little lower than with the

1600, so the axles are a little flatter.

It was easier to make a new rear apron panel than mod the old one, which is not finished. This is because the motor goes right to the back of the body!!

An upright conversion seemed a little costly.

Yes, the throttle throw is yet to be looked at!

As for the gearing, well the van may do a lot of trailer towing.

CU

Reply to
Craig Baker

Reply to
ilambert

Start here

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and read "DTM and your car" it will go over the 68-71 busses a bit with a TIV conversion.

You will have to CUT your bus to bits to install the engine if you do not use an upright kit. Also the air intakes are less than adequate for a stock cooled TIV in a bus, they lack velocity. Switching to an upright cooling arrangement will make the engine lighter, easier to install, more efficiently cooled, and more aesthetically correct.

This is not an easy job, but many of my customers use our DTM to do it. I have a network of guys that you may want to chat with.

Reply to
Jake Raby

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