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1800 for daily-ish driver?

Hi all,

it looks like it is getting close to time to search for another car... my trusty Porsche 944 is getting a little long in the tooth and while I'm sure it could be pulled off the road and rehabbed, I'd need something to drive while doing so. (well, actually the girl would - I have a company car, but she hasn't had a car of her own for a couple years now.)

A Volvo 1800 has always been on my list of "cars I'd like to own someday" and I think I've got her convinced that they're attractive, acceptable cars. One would assume, since as far as I can tell, it's basically an Amazon with a nicer looking body, that it should be capable of being used as a regular car without too much trouble, but I don't really have any experience with them. She takes the Metro to work, and I have a company car, so it'd primarily be used for errands and the occasional road trip.

Am I smoking the crack? How much should one expect to pay for an 1800 in good driving condition, but not necessarily show quality? Where would one go about finding 1800s for sale? Any web sites/forums I should be checking out?

thanks

nate

Reply to
Nate Nagel
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Assuming it is sorted out, no problem using it as a daily driver.

Nice ones aren't cheap.

IPD has some listed in their free customer classifieds:

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Reply to
Mr. V

thanks. what's "not cheap?" 5K? 10K? I really don't know because I don't see enough.

Any specific trouble spots to look for? Typical rust areas? Mechanical issues?

nate

Reply to
Nate Nagel

Depending on whether you go with the older SU-carburetted version, the newer fuel-injected version, or the fuel-injected sport wagon version that was the last one made, a nice one should run from about $3500 (carb) to $5k (wagon) to $10k (1970 or 71 P1800E fuel injected coupe). Look for rust in the frame-rail-like reinforcing members of the unibody underside, and rusted floorpans. The floorpans can be replaced, but the reinforcing members are much more work. Since you don't know this car, I suggest you either find one restored by someone with an excellent rep, or be prepared to devote a lot of time to fixing things you didn't know were bad, or didn't think would be a big deal.

The car was offered with a separate overdrive unit as an option, not standard. Many of the plain 4 speeds have been converted to 4+OD, but for commuting don't let lack of OD scare you. Those cars actually have a higher top speed, because the differential is geared higher, so they will, if running well, redline in 4th, while the OD cars have a lower tops speed in 4th and can't redline in OD. Top speed is about 110 for 5 speeds, 120 for 4. The wagon was offered with an automatic, but it's a basic 3 speed slushbox that really slows the car.

Reply to
Leftie

thanks for the reply, not really set on one model but from a styling perspective I tend to gravitate toward the older cars. Can one really get a reliable "driver" car for the $3500 you state? that's not really all that bad. What's your opinion on Weber conversions? I've done a little searching and it seems that most (of the few) cars for sale that would have had the SUs are now running Webers.

nate

Reply to
Nate Nagel

The price depends on where you live. Old Volvos, even nice ones, tend to sell for much less than you'd think - it's a shame for the owners, but a good deal for the buyers. It's my understanding that Weber conversion cars are a bit thirstier, but make more power. You might have to re-jet one (leaner) to be a daily driver. AFAIK they are reliable. If you live in the Rust belt, look elsewhere for your P1800.

Reply to
Leftie

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