1988 volvo 5 speed clutch disengagement

Although you see the arm moving, consider that it may not be moving enough. If it is a hydraulic clutch, this could be because the system needs bleeding, or a seal has failed (look for fluid leaking around the slave cylinder under the car, or inside the car behind the pedal, from the master cylinder). If it is cable operated, it could be a damaged or maladjusted cable.

If all this checks out OK, then it could be any of the three main parts that make up a clutch kit - friction plate, pressure plate or thrust bearing. All three of these should be replaced during a clutch change. There is also a chance that the actuating arm could be damaged, although this is quite rare.

I've seen both a failed (broken) arm and the pivot point worn out. Oil leaking on the clutch can cause an otherwise functional friction disc to stick to the pressure plate or flywheel. So if you want to be safe, you'll want to take the 3 normal clutch parts, release fork, rear main engine seal, front transmission seal, pilot bearing, and something to at least sand the surface of the flywheel.

Thanx for the help. On this car, will I be able to see the pressure plate and any problem thru an inspection area or will I need to remove the transmission to find the problem? This will be handy to know before I dig in. thanx, bob

You'll probably have to go in. You can see some by pulling the clutch arm boot out of the way but not much. I would do what Mike F. said plus a clutch kit. Most of the aftermarket (ATE) clutch kits come with a disc alignment tool.

Bob

OK - thats great - I think I will just yank it - thanx for all the help, bob ps I am very familiar with this car , and anyone needing any info on the 240 series just let me know.

I once did a far-from-home clutch replacement on a 1987 240. The only piece I forgot to take with me was the gasket between the transmission and the bellhousing. I fashioned one on the spot from cardboard. Big mistake. I made it home o.k. but had to take the transmission back out to put in the right gasket two weeks later.

On a related note, I once had a clutch failure on my 1976 264 where the lever point of the release lever snapped off the aluminum bellhousing. I had to replace the bellhousing.

-RL

Why did you even separate the tranny from the bellhousing? I've only ever done that once and it was because the original gasket had started leaking.

Great info - thanx to all. I have a 1984 volvo 240 wagon that recently failed the new NOx standards for Ohio Echeck. It runs fine, and passes all other aspects of the emissions check. Any ideas? See no other problems. thanx, bob

High Nox is created by high combustion temperature.

Common causes:

1) The compression ratio can be increased by carbon buildup. Cleaning the combustion chamber with a top end cleaner may help if this is the cause - my uncle had good results with Goodwrench (GM) brand.

2) Advanced ignition timing - make sure the timing is set correctly.

3) The catalytic convertor reduces NOx in a different part than it cleans up HC and CO - if this part of the convertor is dead, then you'll need to change it.

4) This only applies to the "MPG" version of 1981-1982 and electronic injected 240s from 1982 up to 1988 model year (yours is one). These can be identified by the ignition box mounted on the bracket with the windshield washer bottle. This ignition system tries to run the spark advanced as much as possible without detonation for fuel economy reasons. If everything else is operating correctly, disconnecting the vacuum connection to this box will make it "think" that the engine is running at full load all the time, with the resultant more conservative advance curve.

Hi! Thanx for all the info - I will check all this out asap. bob