1993 850 GLT Fault Codes?

Jul 04, 2008 7 Replies

Is there any place online where I can get a step by step procedure to display these codes and interpret what they mean?



I'm looking for something to tell if the crank position sensor and possibly fuel pump pressure are good.



On Jul 4, 6:37 pm, Happy Trails wrote:

Electronic Transmission (Socket A 1) ________________________________________

111 No faults found 112 Solenoid S1 short circuit to battery voltage 113 Transmission control module (TCM) fault 114 Program selector open circuit or short circuit to supply 121 Solenoid S1 short circuit to ground or control module fault 122 Solenoid S1 open circuit 123 Solenoid STH short circuit to battery voltage 124 Mode selector faulty or short circuit to ground 131 Solenoid STH open/short circuit or control module fault 132 Transmission control module(TCM) fault 134 Faulty load signal from ignition control module 141 Oil temperature sensor short circuit to ground 142 Oil temperature sensor open circuit 143 Kickdown switch faulty or short to ground 211 Transmission control module (TCM) fault 212 S2 solenoid short circuit to battery 213 Throttle position (TPS) signal too high 221 S2 solenoid short circuit to ground or control module fault 222 S2 solenoid open circuit 223 Throttle position (TPS) sensor signal too low 231 Throttle position (TPS) sensor sporadic 232 Speedometer signal missing 233 Incorrect speedometer signal 235 High Oil temperature 245 Open or short in Torque limiting circuit 311 RPM signal from transmission missing 312 RPM signal from transmission faulty 313 Faulty signal from gear position sensor (PNP) 321 Shift time too long 322 Incorrect gear ratio 323 Lock up slips or is not engaged 331 Short circuit to battery in SL circuit 332 SL solenoid open or control module fault 333 SL solenoid short or control module fault

A2 DTC Codes

DTC: ECT-123 Diagnostic Socket A2 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Code The diagnostic trouble code EFI-123 is stored in the Engine Control Unit (ECU). The code, if set will be in diagnostic socket A2. A code will be set if the signal received at the ECU is below -44 C or above 148 C. When the engine is started a theoretical temperature is assumed and once that temperature reaches 75 C it is compared to the actual reading from the ECT. If the ECT temperature is lower than 58 C the code will be set. Should the code be set idle air trim adaptation is disabled, long-term fuel trim is disabled, leakage diagnostics is disabled and initial boost pressure is adopted. Replacement of the sensor can be done by following the instructions for replacing the thermostat. If you haven't replaced your thermostat in 60K or notice that it takes a while for the temp gauge to get to the 3:00 position, you might want to replace it while you are doing the ECT sensor.

Oxygen Sensor Codes Diagnostic socket A2: EFI-153,212,425,435,436,521,533 When any of the Oxygen Sensor codes are set, the most common repair is to replace the faulty sensor, however don't over look possible causes for the sensor to have failed such as: intake leak, exhaust leak, faulty spark plugs or wires, low compression on one or more cylinders, bad gas, or failed catalytic converter. Normally when an O2 sensor code has been set, fuel trim is inhibited and possible three-way catalytic converter (TWC) damage may occur. It is always a good idea to first read the codes and then see if they return prior to replacing any sensor, however if you have access to a scan tool, the tool can tell you how many times the code has been set, and if it's more than once or twice, you can be sure it is not a glitch in the system and a repair is in order. The oxygen sensor used in the Volvo FWD 850 is a 4-wire Bosch sensor, some owners have had success at replacing the sensor with an after market (Bosch) sensor. The sensor must be soldered into the existing wiring harness, if your not handy with a soldering iron then by the Volvo replacement. Instructions for replacing the sensors can be found in the repair section of this site at bay13. EFI-153; In order for the rear sensor to be able to monitor the three way catalytic converter and affect fuel trim, it must be at operating temperature and at the correct output voltage. Monitoring begins 3 minutes after start of the preheating. If the output voltage is different than the permitted values the code 153, Rear HO2 sensor signal missing or faulty is set. EFI-212; After 3 minutes of monitoring if the front sensor deviates from the permitted values, code 212, front HO2S signal missing or faulty is set. EFI-425; the rear sensor ensures the front is adjusting integrator values correctly, if all positive or negative, the rear sensor can be used to fine-tune the front sensors inputs. Tuning in only one direction by the rear sensor will set code 425, rear HO2 sensor control faulty. EFI-435; the ECM clocks the time for the sensor to sweep from rich to lean and back to rich, excessive time will set code 435, HO2S front slow to respond. EFI-436; the ECM monitors the compensation being made by the rear sensor and sets this code when excessive compensation is being called for. Note: the front sensor can cause this code to be set in the rear. EFI-521 (front), EFI-522 (rear) is set if the ECM detects excessive or insufficient current in the heating circuits.

ABS Socket (A3) ________________________________________

111 No DTC set 121 Left front wheel sensor, faulty signal 40 km/h 411 Left front wheel inlet valve, open/short 412 Left front wheel return valve, open/short 413 Right front wheel inlet valve, open/short 414 Right front wheel return valve, open/short 415 Rear valve open/short 421 Rear wheel inlet valve circuit, open/short 422 Rear wheel return valve circuit, open/short 423 Traction control system valve, open/short 424 Pressure switch for TRACS, faulty or short circuit 441 Control module faulty 442 Pump pressure low 443 Pump motor, electrical or mechanical fault 444 No power supply to valves in hydraulic unit Ignition System (Socket A6) ________________________________________ 111 No DTC set 112 Control Module fault 123 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECT) from Control module missing or faulty 131 Engine speed (RPM) sensor signal missing 142 Control Module Fault 143 Knock sensor (KS) missing or faulty 144 Ignition control module load signal missing 154 EGR system flow too high in system 214 Engine speed (RPM) sensor signal missing sporadically 224 Engine Coolant Temperature sensor (ECT) signal missing or faulty 234 Throttle Position (TPS) signal missing at idle 241 EGR system flow too low in system 243 Throttle Position sensor (TPS) signal missing at idle 311 Vehicle speed signal missing or faulty 314 Camshaft Position sensor (CMP) signal missing or faulty 324 Camshaft Position sensor (CMP) signal missing sporadically 411 Throttle position sensor (TPS) signal from fuel injection system missing or faulty 413 EGR temperature sensor signal faulty 432 Control module box temperature too high level 1 433 Knock sensor (KS) signal rar missing or faulty 513 Control module box temperature too high, level 2

. . . copious information about what the codes mean.

Now, is there any way, outside of buying or borrowing some apparently very expensive electronic diagnostic equipment, that I can display any codes this vehicle has?

The 1993 850 has an on-board diagnostic unit that can be read without any tools. See

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The sockets on the unit are A1 - Transmission A2 - Fuel injection A3 - ABS B1 - A/C B2 - Cruise control B5 - Airbags

By the way, regarding your ignition problem, my two cents are on the camshaft or crankshaft sensor...

Thanks a lot, Jarkka. I suspected this was possible with some of the Volvo models but for some reason could not google any info about it.

Are these sensors easy to locate visually, and is it often a wiring problem rather than an actual sensor failure, as it is in my Jaguar?

The camshaft sensor is located near (or actually within) the upper engine mount/torque bar. If it's the original, it looks like a small ice hockey puck (newer ones are shiny metal). I've heard of people discovering broken wiring, but if the sensor is the old type with a black plastic cover, I'd change it anyway. The replacement procedure is quite obvious.

The crankshaft sensor is mounted on top of the bell housing - fairly easy to replace if you have a bit of dexterity (having small fingers help). I seem to remember that there's been interference problems when the wiring of the sensor has been tied to the HT ignition lead nearby, but I don't think this would result in stopping-and-going.

You might find this doc useful:

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