240 power steering leak-scary quote!

Hi

I'm in Australia.

I've been quoted almost AU$1000 to have a leak in my 85 240 repaired. The mechanic has advised he needs to replace the rack and boots. I can get a guaranteed second hand rack from a wrecker for $150, and I'm a reasonably proficient amateur spanner man. Is it a hard job to replace the rack, boots etc? I don't own a manual yet, although if the gods of eBay smile upon me in the next week or so I'll have one.

thanks in advance for any advice.

Steve

Reply to
stevecusack68
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ZF or Camgear? I found replacing the seals on a ZF fairly straighforward.

Replacing the rack is easy, but you'll have to have the wheels realigned

Reply to
M-gineering

Not sure, sorry. How do I tell?

Reply to
stevecusack68

Manufacturing logo's on the casting? Or look at the servicelabel, ZF is code 3, camgear 2. Repairprocedurers are given for all models in the appropriate Volvo service manual 6 (64) Power steering

Reply to
M-gineering

When you get the used rack, be sure to get the cups or brackets or standoffs or whatever they are called the locate the rack and keep it off the cross member. An aluminium block with a half circle the rack nests into with bolt holes through.

Each rack manufacturer has a unique set of cups ... that fit under the rack at the bolt down point.

Duane

Reply to
Duane

The ZF has a giant "ZF" cast in it (opposite where the steering column attaches, I think) while the Cam Gear version doesn't really say. IIRC the dust boot on the ZF is quite a bit larger (diameter) than the Cam Gear boot.

Mike

Reply to
Michael Pardee

The degree of difficulty is at the fairly advanced "intermediate" level.

Jack up car.

Remove tires and wheels.

Unthread power steering hoses from rack.

Remove outer tie rod ends from mounting holes using tool ("pickle fork").

Loosen the eight bolts on the four "U-bolt" devices used to affix the rack to the car.

Then comes the one that always causes me the most problem: separate the end of the steering shaft from the splined shaft of the rack.

Finally, fully loosen and remove the nuts on the U-bolts, and the rack should come free.

Reply to
Mr. V

If he is replacing the rack with a rebuilt one then that is a reasonable price, at least in my area after converting AUD to my currency.

If you buy a used rack for $150.00 it will likely be as old as yours, have the same wear as yours and will probably be a candidate for replacement because of leaking seals in the near future. So, yes you could save a lot of money in the near term, if you were willing to devote at least a weekend to replacing one used rack with another one and doing a home realignment.

It is a job that most home mechanics could accomplish with the right tools and a reasonably advanced level of knowlege.

My question would be why would you replace one worn out part with another. If you want to do it at home at least buy a rebuilt rack that will last you for a while. If it were me I would pay the mechanic to do the job correctly in the first place and do something else with a weekend.

Reply to
Roadie

You should be able to get a rack cheaper than that, a brand new one is only about US$250. Yard near me has them for US$30.

Changing it is about a 2 hour job if you take your time. You'll need a couple of wrenches and some sort of container to catch the fluid that drains out of the lines. With some careful measurements you can preserve the alignment.

Reply to
James Sweet

I would seriously recommend getting a front end alignment after doing this swap. Also, the new boots idea is a good one. A good aftermarket retailer should be able to come up with them, otherwise the dealer.

Chuck Fiedler Nothing but Volvo since 1974

Reply to
c.fiedler

Two years ago my 91 740wagon spewed a large amount of fluid that has accumulated in the end boot of the rack. I was backing out of my driveway and had the wheel turned all the way when the boot popped off. I do not know how long it has been accumulating there but for what it is worth, on the advice of my mechanic I poured in 12oz of Lucas Power Steering Stop Leak to get my by till we find a used rack or till things get worse. Well it has not gotten any worse yet. I realize that this makes for lousy statistics but it might be worth a try.

Reply to
Boris Mohar

Alternatively, the tie rod ends may be unscrewed from the old rack and screwed onto the other without separating them from the steering knuckle. It goes without saying the toe-in will be anything but good after that - thus the mention by another contributor that alignment is mandatory afterward.

Mike

Reply to
Michael Pardee

Right you are - the tie rods won't last long if the boots are bad.

Mike

Reply to
Michael Pardee

As an alternative to doing it yourself, get a few more quotes. We found an independent mechanic who replaced our rack with a rebuilt one for literally half the highest quoted price: it was a bit under $600 USD. (Then he ripped us off on the next job. Life is like that.)

Reply to
mj

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