"Free" connectors in V740 ?? - To User!!!

Uzytkownik "User" napisal w wiadomosci:

gdg1/gdg4: > r/w wire grounds the constant idle motor (IAC) to cause it to go all the > way shut so that you can set the base idle at 750 rpm.

So I've to connect it with the ground (-) ??

The g/w wire reads the output voltage sweep for the 02 sensor feedback > from the control unit for setting idle CO. For LH cars the output > voltage sweep centered around 2.0 voltsDC with a clean and accurate MAF > sensor. The adjustment range ran from 0.01v-3.7v A good sweep would be > 1.7-2.7v or so. > > > gdg2/gdg8: > The pink wire connects to the starter solenoid. You connect your remote > starter switch B+ there to spin the motor for adjusting valves, checking > compression, spinning belts on and off, or for whatever reason you need > to turn the motor effortlessly.

So,..If I want to move he starter, i've to connect the pink wire to the + ?? From acu??

The Y/R wire is the test point for the EZK control unit. It will > generate a flash code of 1-4, IIRC, through a test LED. If you make one > with long enough leads to reach through the back of the hood opening so > that it can be positioned under a wiper you can observe control unit > detected faults while test driving the car. There is only volatile > memory in the control unit so that once the key is cycled off the > recorded fauts are lost.

OK,..have You got some instructions how can I test the EZK?? What LED I've to use and how read the flashes and some table with meaning on flashes. You are sure that is the test point for EZK not for ECU?? What I can test by this?...all ignition system? Bad reading from Hall sensor, ignition coil , etc.???

Yes.

Use a DVOM set to DC volts.

Yes direct to Battery + terminal. This is the same wire that goes through the Neutral/Safety switch on an automatic transmission car. An easy way to check the voltage drop through the switch when turning the key won't engage the starter.

????

This is/was obsolete technology at the outset. The EZK box would only report a few flash codes while the engine was running. In miles of test driving problem cars the only code I ever saw was a 1. That indicated that the knock sensor had triggered the ICU to retard the timing due to ping. I don't have the manual anymore, but I think there were only the four flash codes. It was a one way deal, the control unit would talk to you but you couldn't tell it anything. The best diagnostic is to take out the one screw that holds the control unit on the bracket and rap it with a screwdriver handle, with the engine running, and one eye on the tachometer. If the needle moves upward rapidly then the IC in the center of the circuit board is loose or bad. EZK failures are few and far between.

Bob