I just noticed that the 'Lock' button on the key fob for my '95 850 no longer locks the doors. However, once locked with the key, the 'Unlock' button on the fob works as always. I tried changing the battery in the fob and the Lock still doesn't work. I also tried a spare fob and the same condition occurred (Lock - no, Unlock - yes). The problem must be with the locking mechanism in the car itself. Anybody run into this condition?
The only recent mechanical work done on the car was to replace the air condition condenser. The work was done yesterday and that makes me think this may be related (although I can't imagine how). Is the condenser anywhere near the door lock receiver or mechanism? Is the wiring nearby?
Yes, I do have another fob and the same thing happens - Lock doesn't work but Unlock is OK. That is what makes me think it is something in the car itself.
How are these fobs programmed? Maybe I could try to reprogram the Open code. But how is that done?
The key fob does not activate the alarm any longer either. Locking the door with the key is now the only way to set the alarm. However the Unlock button on the fob continues to deactivate the alarm and unlock the door. Like I have also said, the issue must be with the car itself because I have another fob and that Lock button appears not to work either.
The door lock receiver is to the right of the glove compartment. If the evaporator was replaced (dash disassembled), then it's a possibility.
Otherwise, it may be the same problem I experienced (and fixed) recently on ky 94 wagon. Try this: With the doors locked, unlock each door (and trunk/tailgate) with the key, If, after unlocking it, both remote buttons work, then you have the same problem I had. (Description and repost below). If unlocking that door has no effect, lock it again and move on to the next. (Not sure how this would work with the keyless reaar doors though.)
**** REPOST of 4/29/05 message **** One day, I noticed that the tailgate didn't lock when I locked the rest of the doors, via remote, or key. So, I locked the tailgate with my key.
Some time later, I noticed that the remote was NOT locking the doors. I could unlock, but I had to lock it via the driver's door key, which also locked all the other doors (except the tailgate). The spare remote exhibited the same behavior, so the problem was in the car. If I used the key in the driver's door, every other door except the tailgate would lock and unlock with it.
Some initial troubleshooting revealed that, if the tailgagte was manually unlocked, then the remote would both lock, and unlock the car.
I pulled the tailgate latch assy, and noticed that the seam of the plastic motor housing was split open along the plunger side. (arrows in this photo:
formatting link
I wish I had remembered to phoograph the innards, but the way is worksis that the motor (in the left side) via reductrion gears, drives acoarse pitch that runs up the middle of the plunger. The screw engages a sliding block that travels between the plungerlegs, and carries it up, or down via spring loaded detents. Itreleases it's grip on the plunger at the end of it's travel in eitherdirection, so the key lock is free to move the plunger as well.At the bottom of it's travel (unlocked), the plunger activates aswitch, that signals to the central locking relay that it's locked.When it's up, an "unlocked" signal lead is grounded instead.. The casing was split along the plunger side, apparently keeping it from actuating the switch properly. When unlocked, it was still signalling the lock relay (which contains some logic) that the rear door was locked, while the other doors were grounding the "unlocked" signal. Receiving both "locked" and "unlocked" signals prevented the locking relay from responding to the input from the remote receiver.
When the tailgate was unlocked, the relay still received mixed signals in the opposite direction, but somehow, this didn't prevent it from operating.
I tried gluing the housing with cyanoacrylic cement, but it split open again on the first cycling of the remote. So, I re-glued it and reinforced it with shortened staples sunk into the plastic with a soldering iron, then secured with some more glue.
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messy, but it's worth about $300 to me :-)I think that the motor had a bit of overrun, and when the drive blockran into the stop, the remaining torque worked to split the casingopen.
It works fine now. And, I've finally removed the loose tailgate liner so I can repair the clip anchor holes.
Also, the receiver has only four connections, 12V, ground, ignition, and output, which is pulsed differently for lock and unlock remote functions, so, if works one way, then all the wires are connected.
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Not sure if a 1977 V70 is the same but I guess it could well be.
Our keyless locking system started doing very odd things similar to yours and also occasionally locked and unlocked the doors when the car was running. Turned out to be the door lock control mechanism. I am not entirely clear what this is as Volvo replaced it under my extended warranty but I seem to recall that it also activated the alarm system. I was told by the garage that this was something like a £600 part !!! so presumably there is a bit more to it than it being an activating solenoid. They also told me that it was not the first thay had replaced either.
I hope your prob is something simpler. If it is such a pricy part then perhaps a scrappy beckons.
Regards
Andy
The door lock receiver is to the right of the glove compartment. If the evaporator was replaced (dash disassembled), then it's a possibility.
Otherwise, it may be the same problem I experienced (and fixed) recently on ky 94 wagon. Try this: With the doors locked, unlock each door (and trunk/tailgate) with the key, If, after unlocking it, both remote buttons work, then you have the same problem I had. (Description and repost below). If unlocking that door has no effect, lock it again and move on to the next. (Not sure how this would work with the keyless reaar doors though.)
**** REPOST of 4/29/05 message **** One day, I noticed that the tailgate didn't lock when I locked the rest of the doors, via remote, or key. So, I locked the tailgate with my key.
Some time later, I noticed that the remote was NOT locking the doors. I could unlock, but I had to lock it via the driver's door key, which also locked all the other doors (except the tailgate). The spare remote exhibited the same behavior, so the problem was in the car. If I used the key in the driver's door, every other door except the tailgate would lock and unlock with it.
Some initial troubleshooting revealed that, if the tailgagte was manually unlocked, then the remote would both lock, and unlock the car.
I pulled the tailgate latch assy, and noticed that the seam of the plastic motor housing was split open along the plunger side. (arrows in this photo:
formatting link
wish I had remembered to phoograph the innards, but the way is worksis that the motor (in the left side) via reductrion gears, drives acoarse pitch that runs up the middle of the plunger.The screw engages a sliding block that travels between the plungerlegs, and carries it up, or down via spring loaded detents. Itreleases it's grip on the plunger at the end of it's travel in eitherdirection, so the key lock is free to move the plunger as well.At the bottom of it's travel (unlocked), the plunger activates aswitch, that signals to the central locking relay that it's locked.When it's up, an "unlocked" signal lead is grounded instead.. The casing was split along the plunger side, apparently keeping it from actuating the switch properly. When unlocked, it was still signalling the lock relay (which contains some logic) that the rear door was locked, while the other doors were grounding the "unlocked" signal. Receiving both "locked" and "unlocked" signals prevented the locking relay from responding to the input from the remote receiver.
When the tailgate was unlocked, the relay still received mixed signals in the opposite direction, but somehow, this didn't prevent it from operating.
I tried gluing the housing with cyanoacrylic cement, but it split open again on the first cycling of the remote. So, I re-glued it and reinforced it with shortened staples sunk into the plastic with a soldering iron, then secured with some more glue.
formatting link
messy, but it's worth about $300 to me :-)I think that the motor had a bit of overrun, and when the drive blockran into the stop, the remaining torque worked to split the casingopen.
It works fine now. And, I've finally removed the loose tailgate liner so I can repair the clip anchor holes.
Also, the receiver has only four connections, 12V, ground, ignition, and output, which is pulsed differently for lock and unlock remote functions, so, if works one way, then all the wires are connected.
To reply, please remove one letter from each side of "@" Spammers are VERMIN. Please kill them all.
Doug - thanks! I locked the car with the key from the driver's door then unlocked the tailgate with the key. Now the Lock button on the fob works again. But so that I understand, since this seems to have resolved the problem, is the issue completely resolve or does the results diagnose that the real problem is with the tailgate plunger assemble?
The door lock receiver is to the right of the glove compartment. If the evaporator was replaced (dash disassembled), then it's a possibility.
Otherwise, it may be the same problem I experienced (and fixed) recently on ky 94 wagon. Try this: With the doors locked, unlock each door (and trunk/tailgate) with the key, If, after unlocking it, both remote buttons work, then you have the same problem I had. (Description and repost below). If unlocking that door has no effect, lock it again and move on to the next. (Not sure how this would work with the keyless reaar doors though.)
**** REPOST of 4/29/05 message **** One day, I noticed that the tailgate didn't lock when I locked the rest of the doors, via remote, or key. So, I locked the tailgate with my key.
Some time later, I noticed that the remote was NOT locking the doors. I could unlock, but I had to lock it via the driver's door key, which also locked all the other doors (except the tailgate). The spare remote exhibited the same behavior, so the problem was in the car. If I used the key in the driver's door, every other door except the tailgate would lock and unlock with it.
Some initial troubleshooting revealed that, if the tailgagte was manually unlocked, then the remote would both lock, and unlock the car.
I pulled the tailgate latch assy, and noticed that the seam of the plastic motor housing was split open along the plunger side. (arrows in this photo:
formatting link
wish I had remembered to phoograph the innards, but the way is worksis that the motor (in the left side) via reductrion gears, drives acoarse pitch that runs up the middle of the plunger.The screw engages a sliding block that travels between the plungerlegs, and carries it up, or down via spring loaded detents. Itreleases it's grip on the plunger at the end of it's travel in eitherdirection, so the key lock is free to move the plunger as well.At the bottom of it's travel (unlocked), the plunger activates aswitch, that signals to the central locking relay that it's locked.When it's up, an "unlocked" signal lead is grounded instead.. The casing was split along the plunger side, apparently keeping it from actuating the switch properly. When unlocked, it was still signalling the lock relay (which contains some logic) that the rear door was locked, while the other doors were grounding the "unlocked" signal. Receiving both "locked" and "unlocked" signals prevented the locking relay from responding to the input from the remote receiver.
When the tailgate was unlocked, the relay still received mixed signals in the opposite direction, but somehow, this didn't prevent it from operating.
I tried gluing the housing with cyanoacrylic cement, but it split open again on the first cycling of the remote. So, I re-glued it and reinforced it with shortened staples sunk into the plastic with a soldering iron, then secured with some more glue.
formatting link
messy, but it's worth about $300 to me :-)I think that the motor had a bit of overrun, and when the drive blockran into the stop, the remaining torque worked to split the casingopen.
It works fine now. And, I've finally removed the loose tailgate liner so I can repair the clip anchor holes.
Also, the receiver has only four connections, 12V, ground, ignition, and output, which is pulsed differently for lock and unlock remote functions, so, if works one way, then all the wires are connected.
To reply, please remove one letter from each side of "@" Spammers are VERMIN. Please kill them all.
If the tailgate doesn't lock with the key fob, then you have the same issue as I had. The problem is with the plunger motor assembly, whose casing had split open. The 2000 parts catalog shows the plunger motor as a separate part.
To reply, please remove one letter from each side of "@" Spammers are VERMIN. Please kill them all.
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