My 2000 Volvo S80 stalls

My 2000 Volvo S80 stalls when I slow down. For Example, if I'm driving at highway speeds and slow down because of traffic the rpms go down and instead of stopping at ideal the car just stalls. This also happens at stop signs and traffic lights- when I stop pushing the gas the car stalls.

By way of background, I explained the problem to Volvo dealer but at the time the car was dead so the Volvo dealer said that a code test could not be performed because I need a new alternator and battery which I had changed. But the problem with the stalling still occurs. Down about $1,000.00 so far

I recently visited an AutoZone shop with an ASE Certified technician and was told that the he reads nothing wrong with the codes and as usual the problem did not occur while he was test driving the car. Any suggestions?

Reply to
SCOUT
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There's a common problem with the electronic throttle, which will requre replacement and a software download to fix. Also I've heard that a sticking torque convertor lockup can cause this. Try shifting into neutral as you come to a stop.

Reply to
Mike F

Thanks Mike.

That is exactly how I drive put the car in neutral but I can't keep that up. Any idea on cost to replace the electronic throttle in the US?

Reply to
SCOUT

This happen to my 2001 S80. Needed to keep the gas pedal depress or the engine would stall. Problem faulty signal inside the mass air flow sensor. Replaced mass air flow sensor . Car now runs normal. Part number

Reply to
MaryAnne Olsen

You did not say if your S-80 has the T6 engine or the 2.9 Motor but rough estimate is as follows

1:] Electronic Throttle Module $550.00 2:] Gasket for the ETM $10.00 3:] Software for the ETM $30.00 4:] Labor 3 Hours @ whatever the labor rate is of the Volvo dealer you have perform the repair Glenn Volvo Technician
Reply to
Glenn Klein

You kind of have to see how the engine reacts as you put it into neutral. What happens is the 2 (redundant) potentiometers that report the throttle position to the computer wear out, and the computer is not sure where the throttle is. Putting it in neutral reduces the load on the engine at idle and so puts the potentiometer into a new position that is not worn out, both of which helps avoid stalls. Also if the torque convertor lockup is sticking (which is very rare), it sidesteps that problem. You just need to make sure it's the throttle body, as opposed the the locked up torque convertor.

Reply to
Mike F

Are the pots accessible enough to get Stabilant 22A (or the more dilute form called "Tweak" available in stereo shops) into them? It is a pricey "block polymer" that is conductive in thin films and insulating in thick films, and lubricates the surface to reduce wear. It could prolong the inevitable... if the pots are accessible.

Mike

Reply to
Michael Pardee

I don't know, yet. I have a dead ETM sitting on my workbench in the garage, just waiting for some warmer weather. Not having the dreaded ETM in my cars, I haven't been in too much of a hurry to rip that one apart...

Reply to
Mike F

Holy Crapola!!

That's one mighty pricey trouble code!

Yikes, not looking forward to that one.

Sorry about your misfortune (Or loss of fortune in this case)

Reply to
vinran1

I'm stating to see the same problem, 2000 S80 T6.

I wrote above in another post..

I have 2000 S80, 90K miles. I am noticing a bit of idle problems, but in my case the engine RPM goes to about 400, then back to 700 - almost stalling the car. This happens every other day, once or twice. What I think is happening is that the transmission is not disengaging all the way, or starts engaging a little when the car is idling. This causes load on the idling car, taking the RPM down a little, then the engine control sees the low rpm and applies a bit more gas.. the transmission then releases and the rpm goes up to about 900, then back down to 700. I changed the transmission fluid about a year ago but did not flush the complete system.. which I will do soon. Hope this fixes this small problem.

sc

Reply to
Scott C

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