sticking ring 240 2.3

Have you checked that the PCV/flametrap/oil mist trap are all operating properly? These should be changedd as the oil trap is very difficult to clean properly. A piece of flat plastic should be sucked down and held (slightly) on the oil filler neck when the engine is running- that is, there should be a slight abmunt of negative pressure in the crankcas. if not, then numerous oil leaks are the result. The mechjanic should have first check for that, unless he has other knowledge about the motor. Like, did he do a compression check to KNOW that a ring was stuck?

IF (and that's a big if) you have verified that the motor needs to be rebuilt, then try this: Warm up motor, drain engine, change oil filter, fill with ATF, and run at fast idle for a few minutes (like

3-5 minutes), then drain, change filter, fill with proper motor oil, and drive. Be sure to speed up to a higher RPM, then release the throttle a few times during this drive (like downshifting). Change oil again after 100 miles, then take for a long, fast drive.

"sno>i had an oil leak from rear main, that was fixed, now its pushing oil out of

__ __ Randy & \ \/ /alerie's \__/olvos '90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate "Shelby" & "Kate"

thanks Randy :)

the mechanic put a new flame trap in a few weeks ago, is that what u mean?

i bought a bottle of Nulon Engine Oil Flush, is that ok to use?

more info on this product:-

, its on the lefthand side under 'engine treatments', might help with info for you.

As long as the crankcase ventilation is clear no amount of blow-by will pressurize the crankcase. The flametrap is an important part, but even the hoses themselves can plug completely (happened to our 760T).

The ventilation hose should have little restriction all the way from the end that connects to the intake through to the crankcase. Remove the oil cap and blow into the end of the hose that attached to the intake. If you can't get air through there about like you would use to blow out a candle, check each section. I believe your model has the oil-air separator on the engine (under the intake manifold); those often become restricted. They aren't easy to clean and replacements are reasonably priced.

Mike

That's a good start. Thre is also an oil trap, under the intake manifold- a balck, plastic box sot of thing. Cheap to replace, hard to clean, and they can become clogged which will/can also cause leakage.

Again, as I mentioned, check for negative pressure in the crankcase when the motor is running. If there is negative pressure, then the things I mentioned are not the problem.

Try that cleaner- I don't think it can make things a whole lot worse, but FIRST try the crankcase pressure/vacuum check:

-Take a piece of stiff plastic (like 3-5mm thick, clear plexiglas).

-Moisten one side with a thin coat of engine oil.

-Remove oil fill cap and lay plastic on opening of valve cover.

-Hold in place lightly. Look at oil film to assure that a good seal has been achieved.

-Lift plastic off. Remember how much force it took to lift.

-Replace Plastic, hold in place, and have someone start motor.

-Hold plastic place lightly for about ten or fifteen seconds. Look at oil film to assure that a good seal has been achieved.

-Lift plastic off. It should take more effort to remove than it did with the motor off.

__ __ Randy & \ \/ /alerie's \__/olvos '90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate "Shelby" & "Kate"

ty guys i'll try those things in the next day or so.

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