Start by looking at:
or do google on "240 Volvo strut replacement" (no quotes). The Google
Groups results for 240 Volvo strut replacement has info in the third item.
In summary, i find it best to remove the whole strut from the car, then
remove the spring and reassemble in the workshop. These things are
heavy. You will need an assistant. For tools an (1/2 inch drive)
impact wrench and suitable socket is essential in order to get the top
nut loosened. Another task is removal of the brake lines. I prefer to
spray the fittings by the inner fender with penetrating oil for a few
days before attempting to loosen them. You would be wise to replace the
rubber brake lines at this point as they are very old. Since the brake
calipers must be removed as well, you should inspect them for proper
functioning and replace the pads if needed. I assume that you are *not*
replacing the strut inserts. If yes, count on having a challenging time
removing the large diameter insert capture nuts. I put the whole strut
(without calipers) in a 4 inch bench vice (with protectors on the jaws)
and sometimes even use a torch to get that nut off. Finally, there are
some notes on my web site about the struts. Look for "8.1 Front
suspension" at http://220.127.116.11/245dl_1981_restoration.html .
I hope this helps a bit. The job is not difficult, just use good tools,
safety goggles when handling those spring compressors and safe
procedures, jack stands, and an assistant at times. After you are done,
an alignment job is in order.
The correct tool is a "C-spanner"
Here's a photo that I googled up of the style of spanner in question.
I bought one from a local tool shop. The one I have has a hinge in the
middle of the arc and is single ended. I was able to remove the old
retaining ring using the C-spanner and a rubber mallet (hitting the
handle near the other end).
Then I discovered that the Bilstein inserts came with their own design
of retainer complete with a separate installation tool and I didn't
need the C-spanner to assemble them.
For the top of the strut, a "rattle gun" (air impact wrench) is fine
for removing the top nut from an insert that is not going to be used
again but should never be used on a good one!
I bought a set of deep offset spanners to do up the top nut, and got a
mate to machine a slot in the end of a piece of hex bar to stop the top
of the insert turning whilst tightening the nut. Then I discovered
that the Bilsteins had an allen key hole in the top...
With aftermarket top bearings, the nut won't be in such a deep hole and
the deep offset spanner may not be needed.
Athol <http://cust.idl.com.au/athol Linux Registered User # 254000
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