used Volvo 740 DL: accessing timing belt condition?

Our little dog rescue recently received the donation of a 1990 Volvo

740 DL sedan (no turbo). We have no way of knowing when the timing belt was last changed (2111,000 miles on the clock). In general the car was not well cared for but it runs well now that it has had a tune-up.

Can a mechanic accurately inspect the timing belt to determine if it should be replaced? Is this engine an "interference engine" where gastly things will occurs if the timing belt breaks? Should we just go ahead and replace it? How much should that cost?

Thanks in advance!

Reply to
sue sanchez
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Sue,

The b230 series engines are all interference engines, and due to my own stupidity, mine recently proved how ghastly things can get, I hadn't tightened the crankshaft pulley to the correct torque, the timing belt drive behind it starting 'rattling', it's locating 'dog' shattered off, the belt stopped turning, the engine stopped turning very shortly after, 3 exhaust valves were history, one was so badly bent I had to break it to remove it, I know I was lucky to get away with relatively minor (to me) damage.

If you are in any doubt about when the belt was last changed, it's not safe to leave it, any experienced mechanic should be able to do the job in an hour or less, the timing marks are clear, and easy to interpret, none of the fittings/bolts etc are hard to access, the belts themselves are very cheap for what they are/do. Here in the UK they average about 14-16 UKP.

Having never paid anyone to do my spannering (DIY mostly), I couldn't tell you how much it would cost to do the job.

If you can actually see the belt (or remove the cover to get at it), twist it round slightly at the longest section, then bend the teeth towards you a little (this opens the teeth out a bit), do not crimp or fold the belt, this will damage it, any slight evidence of cracking at the base of teeth is an indication of being old, and not as reliable as you'd like.

Best wishes, Ken

The b230 series engines are all interference engines, and due to my own stupidity, mine recently proved how ghastly things can get, I hadn't tightened the crankshaft pulley to the correct torque, the timing belt drive behind it starting 'rattling', it's locating 'dog' shattered off, the belt stopped turning, the engine stopped turning very shortly after, 3 exhaust valves were history, one was so badly bent I had to break it to remove it, I know I was lucky to get away with relatively minor (to me) damage.

If you are in any doubt about when the belt was last changed, it's not safe to leave it, any experienced mechanic should be able to do the job in an hour or less, the timing marks are clear, and easy to interpret, none of the fittings/bolts etc are hard to access, the belts themselves are very cheap for what they are/do. Here in the UK they average about 14-16 UKP.

Having never paid anyone to do my spannering (DIY mostly), I couldn't tell you how much it would cost to do the job.

If you can actually see the belt (or remove the cover to get at it), twist it round slightly at the longest section, then bend the teeth towards you a little (this opens the teeth out a bit), do not crimp or fold the belt, this will damage it, any slight evidence of cracking at the base of teeth is an indication of being old, and not as reliable as you'd like.

Best wishes, Ken

Reply to
Ken Phillips (UK)

Just change it. Even if you pay a mechanic to do it, it is a LOT cheaper than the damage it can do if it fails. There are plenty of older 960s in wrecking yards with destroyed motors from timing belt failure. On my 960 the timing belt runs the water pump as well, so I keep a spare in the garage so if it feels wonky when I have the belt out I change the pump at the same time. There are other related parts as well (tensioner, idler, etc) but the mechanic will have to access the belt to check these. The idler pully on mine was worn, showing signs that it could fail soon. I was glad I changed all teh related parts. That doesn't have to be done every time, but they all need to be checked. The cost of the tow alone could pay for most of the job.

from Randy & Valerie __ __ \ \ / / \ \/ / \__/olvo 1993 960

Reply to
Randy G.

All B21, B23, B230, and B230F engines are non-interference engines. Breaking the T-belt cannot damage the engine. It pays 2 1/2 hours labour and you might as well pay another 1/2 hr and get the 3 front seals replaced at the same time.

Reply to
Rod Gray

I've always heard that only the B20, Diesel, and 16valve 4 bangers were interference engines and that the B23, B230 were not ? Anyhow I have my B23's timing belt replaced every 50K - 60K miles and it costs me about $110 USD at an independent shop.

Reply to
Buc4evr

Not in north america they're not, the 16v engines are interference but I've personally verified that the 8v B230F's are not.

Reply to
James Sweet

Interference or not, a broken belt will leave you stranded and isn't a particularly difficult service, best to just get it done if in doubt.

Reply to
James Sweet

Folks, thanks for all your advice.

My very trustworthy mechanic inspected the belt and it was obvious that it had been in use for quite a while. Although the engine is a non-interference, I decided to have the belt changed anyway to avoid the possibility of being stranded somewhere with a car full of homeless dogs.

Thanks again for your kind help.

Reply to
sue sanchez

Folks, thanks for all your advice.

My very trustworthy mechanic inspected the belt and it was obvious that it had been in use for quite a while. Although the engine is a non-interference, I decided to have the belt changed anyway to avoid the possibility of being stranded somewhere with a car full of homeless dogs.

Thanks again for your kind help.

Reply to
sue sanchez

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