I want to renew the timing belt on my 740, with the B230E engine. I purchased a Haynes manual this morning and don't find it all that clear. It keeps jumping about round the different models. Does anyone know if I have interpreted the manual correctly that you don't need a tension checker when replacing the belt, you just trust the automatic tensioner to get it right. Are the timing marks in the sprockets/casings easy to identify?. To be honest I haven't looked at the engine with the manual in hand yet, that comes tomorrow, weather permitting. I'm sure it will all become clear once I start.
From a point at sea, to the circles of your mind, this is Bill:
If you've done a timing belt on any other car before you won't have any trouble with this one. The most difficult part is loosening the crank pulley - easiest way is to put a socket and T-bar on it with an extension tube braced against something solid, and then briefly operate the starter motor.
The tensioner is spring loaded to take the slack up - once this is done you clamp it with a nut so it can't move; then turn the engine over a couple of times by hand, loosen and re-clamp. After 500 miles loosen and re-clamp it again - there's a hole in the cover to make this easy. It's often a good idea to replace the tensioner with the belt - it's not expensive.
Also note, that you can lever back the tensioner against it's spring easily enough with a bar of some sort (once the clamp nut is loosened, obviously), and then you will see a hole in which you can slip a nail to retain it in this position while you replace the belt. Remove the clamp nut entirely and the whole tensioner can be pulled off while it's like this.
The only sprocket wheels you need to get aligned are the crank and camshaft ones; the intermediate one doesn't matter on this model. The marks on the wheels are easy enough to find, but the marks on the case that they align with are not necessarily obvious. If in doubt, put your own marks on with tippex (typing correction fluid) before you remove the old belt.
I have used the following method without needing to find any marks: before you remove the old belt, put a couple of daps of tippex on the edge of each sprocket, so that the dabs overlap onto the edge of the belt. Make each dab exactly co-incide with a tooth. Now remove the old belt, and, by counting the teeth between dabs, mark the new belt with tippex so that it matches the old one. When you fit the new belt, line up the tippex dabs and the sprockets will be in the same alignment as with the old one. Even if the sprockets get turned, it's just a matter of matching the dabs, and it will be OK.
Another method I read about on here a while ago, but have not yet tried myself: Before loosening the tensioner and removing the old belt, slit it longways with a Stanley knife, turning the engine as you go, so the you have two half-width belts. Loosen the tensioner and remove the front part of the old belt. Fit the new belt half on. Cut the other old half off. Fit new belt fully.
BTW, this model is a non-interference engine, which means that pistons and valves can never come into contact with each other - rotating the crankshaft is OK when the belt is off.
Finally, regarding the Haynes manual - the one with the blue cover is a retrograde step by Haynes; it is poorly set out, confusing, and not particularly comprehensive. Have a look on eBay to see if you can get a copy of the older black covered book - it is much more informative and covers 740 and 760 models up to 1989. I got mine for about 4 quid.
If you're just changing the belt, spin the idler wheel and check for roughness if fine just lever it back and tighten the nnut to hold it in the retracted position.
For the record: in the B230 family all E engines and some A engines are interference types. F engines have never been interference engines.
Thanks for that, I have printed it off and slipped in the manual. I did buy the blue covered one. The other one you mentioned was on Ebay the other night with just a few minutes to go at £2:50. I didn't see what the closing price was. I will have to keep an eye open.
I had a quick look today at the cambelt, and it looks straight forward enough. I have an air wrench, providing I can get it in the nut will come off easy. I don't suppose you can remember the size of the nut can you, and is it a normal right hand thread. I think my biggest socket is 22 mm, I may need to go shopping.
For interest sake would it do any harm if I SLOWLY turned my crankshaft when the belt is removed and see if anything locks, or if it goes all the way round. It would settle the debate once and for all.
My brother had a 1981 GLT with B23E engine ("K" camshaft) and was definitely interference, personally checked by me, using above described method. B230E does use a different camshaft though...
I thought that the GLT designation was for 16-valve twin cam engine. At least that is in UK/Europe and B23E is European engine. Small wonder it was interference if that is the case. I would be happy to be advised that my information is wrong, if it is. I have a 745 GLT on my register that is local to me and that is definitely twin cam.
Cheers, Peter.
: > On behalf of the entire Vovlo owning community we are pleased to : > accept your offer. : >
: > If you knacker your engine, you're on your own. : >
: > -- : >
: > Stewart Hargrave : >
: > A lot faster than public transport : >
: > For email, replace 'SpamOnlyToHere' with my name : : My brother had a 1981 GLT with B23E engine ("K" camshaft) and was : definitely interference, personally checked by me, using above described : method. B230E does use a different camshaft though... : : -- : Mike F. : Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont. : : Change cant to ca and remove parentheses to email me directly.
: > I thought that the GLT designation was for 16-valve twin cam engine. At least : > that is in UK/Europe and B23E is European engine. Small wonder it was : > interference if that is the case. I would be happy to be advised that my : > information is wrong, if it is. I have a 745 GLT on my register that is local to : > me and that is definitely twin cam. : >
: > Cheers, Peter. : >
: : The GLT designation was around long before the 16 valve engine, and the : B23E was used in lots of places other than Europe. In Canada, all our : 1981-1983 GL and GLT models received the B23E engine, although only the : 1981 and 1982 models had the high lift "K" camshaft. : : -- : Mike F. : Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont. : : Change cant to ca and remove parentheses to email me directly.
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