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alternator .. hot , real hot

Ok, I've got a situation with the alternator on my 92 jetta, either a) the alternator is Fubar, or b) something can be done.

After working on car today and test driving it (its almost at the end of the project) I blew the alternator belt on it.

Some history, I tightened the belt a few weeks ago as it was loose and squealing.. at the the same time it seemed to me that the pulley on the alternator had some play in it.. anyway, I tightened the *%$(#

So she blew off today, and the alternator pulley was very hot. I believe it still turned though. Something else, until the belt went, my charging was working, and the instrument panel light never came on until the belt went.

do I need a new alternator? (bearings, etc in it $%*#)T?ed?)

Reply to
Chris
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You need a new belt for sure, but I wish I had been able to recommend a belt earlier on.

btw- you can over tighten a belt too tight. It can wreck bearings and such. Squealing is an automatic tighten the crap out of it situation.

If the belt is tearing itself loose it will cause friction which may have hastened it's demise. Chicken or the egg issue.

If you turn it by hand, without a belt on it, what kind of resistance are yo getting?

TBerk

Reply to
T

Make sure you have the right alternator and bracket for your car--there are several 8v setups with regard to engine accessories, and the presence or lack of AC makes a difference in both the alternator bracket and the alternator itself (particularly in the pulley and pulley offset); using a non-AC alternator pulley where you should be using an AC or vice-versa may work, especially for a short while, but the aligned between the crank pulley and the alternator pulley won't be right, resulting in belt, bracket, bolt, and alternator failures. As soon as I can, I'm replacing my auto-store-generic-alternator with a genuine Bosch reman from a reputable manufacturer and getting the right f'in pulley to go with it.

(as a side note, you *can* use an AC alt in a non-AC car as long as you swap the pulleys, which may be desirable if your car is spec'd for the 65A non-AC alt rather than the 90A AC alt.)

Reply to
Kevin 'Sparty' Broderick

Alternators do get quite hot, but, I suggest your alternator might be going. There could be too much resistance (starting to seize) causing your belt to go. As Kevin says, check how it free wheels without the belt. There are 2 bearings that would cause it turn or not turn freely. If it is NOT smooth, free and quite, save yourself a sudden failure and replace the bearings (or the alternator) now. The pulley needs to be tight and lined up with the other pulleys. If your alternator light did not come on normally, it is doing electronically what it should. To check, measure voltage while running (across battery is fine) - should be around 14V, versus when the car is off (around 13V). If you have doubts, take it off and take it to a 'good' shop for advice. Here at Canadian Tire, 3 out of the 4 car parts jockeys can't even test these things properly, WITH instructions! rick

Reply to
Rick De Visser

hmmmm interesting I suggest you find yerself a trusted and reliable mechanic, thank you for your time sir

Reply to
eatshit

If I turn it by hand now, I get zero resistance, it turns beautifully, smooth... I know the belt was loose again just before I started playing with the car.. I just ignored it for that period while I test drove the car looking for other things... feeling the belt I can say she was really heated up and started to fall apart.. maybe due to the slipping, and friction?????

Maybe the alternator is ok?

First test put a new belt on, and check again I think...

Reply to
Chris

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