Starter solenoid current?

I know the ones you mean.

A fluke fuse is a HRC fuse, but it is a very special one. You won't get an equivalent from RS for less than $50 each. You will get ones that are HRC and the same size, but they are not equivalents.

Inside a fluke fuse, you have the usual sand, but the fuse itself is a perforated strip, folded concertina style on the perforations. That's what lets it react so quickly to overload to protect not just you, but the meter too (though fluke meters usually have VDRs as well).

The ones that you are getting, if rated to 1000 V and 5kA will provide personnel protection, but will diminish the meter protection significantly.

Cheers, Paul Saccani Perth, Western Australia. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Interesting, thanks for that.

Scotty

Reply to
Scotty
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Agreed, this has been an interesting thread with a lot of good information. BTW, a common failure on (I'm going to say earlier, but we're talking 80's and later) VWs is the inline spade connector to the solenoid. Corrosion builds in that connector resulting in a high resistance joint. This got me on my Cabriolet (an 88) a few years ago. Someone here pointed out what the likely problem was and he was correct. Because the solenoid does draw a lot more current than one realizes any resistance is a big problem.

Reply to
PeterD

The clamp meter shows just 5A peak in the solenoid. I suspect that's the average over about 0.1 seconds; which is about how long it takes to close the contacts that pull in the starter fully.

The 5A is the highest peak out of about 20 (*) successive starts. I suspect that that's an average over the sampling period. Figures are scattered all over the place; from 0.3A up to 5A. Most in the 3 to 5A range.

I'll have to put the digital scope with linear Hall-effect sensor on the wire to find the peak inrush current.

(*) Don't want to cook the starter motor with too many successive starts without a reasonable cooling off period.

Reply to
Bernd Felsche

You would be real lucky if the clampl meter had a sample rate as high as 10 Hz - many seem to have a sample rate of less than one per second! Cheers,

Paul Saccani, Perth, Western Australia

Reply to
Paul Saccani

Put a 7 amp fuse in line and crank the engine. If it doesn't blow you pretty well know it;s less than 12 amps (fuse can take about 60% overcurrent for several seconds)

Reply to
clare

The PROPER fast blow instrument fuse IS there to protect the meter - and IS generally effective. Using a standard or slow blow fuse WILL fry the meter. NEVER replace the meter fuse with other than the proper quick-blow meter fuse.

Reply to
clare

Nope. Unless they work different when they are upside-down, and I didn't notice that effect in Livingstone.

Reply to
clare

I'm sorry, but with the greatest of respect, you do not know what you are talking about.

Reply to
Paul Saccani

Again, I point out that you do not know what you are talking about.

I've just been describing what *actually* happens with the specified fuse (which presumably, you wish to ignore), and that the function of the fuse is for personnel protection.

Please read IEC 61010, specifically the section dealing with fault clearance by fuses.

Replacement with a lower current value HRC fuse can protect both the meter and the user, with no reduction in safety.

As I pointed out, this is usually not the case in reality. Device protection is generally achieved with VDRs.

Never mind the fact that properly selected ones will not only *not* fry the meter, they actually provide better protection.

Too bad if the specified fuse doesn't actually do its job! And replacing it actually enhances both meter and personnel protection.

Reply to
Paul Saccani

Someone thinks the fuse in the meter protects the user, which is not the case. Whether the fuse is there, blown, or not in existence, the hazards are the same. The fuse is intended to protect the meter from excessive currents, and nothing else.

Reply to
PeterD

Please read IEC 61010, specifically the section dealing with fault clearance by fuses.

This is not at all true. Which you would know if you had a better understanding of fault currents and what they do.

That is not the case. But, please, don't let the facts intrude onto your reasoning process.

Reply to
Paul Saccani

**This'll do the trick:

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You should be able to borrow one from your local sparky. Most have them now, though DC rated ones are a little rarer. Auto electricians have them. Or should.

Reply to
Trevor Wilson

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Have one similar out in the garage. Much easier to use.

Reply to
Krypsis

I already offered him a loaner. He prefers not to borrow equipment.

You can't fault that.

Reply to
Paul Saccani

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A group of us used to share equipment. Had all manner of things. If we needed something, we'd pool our resources and just buy it. Trouble is, most members of the old group have shuffled off their mortal coils now. I was one of the youngsters in the group. Actually, come to think of it, I am the youngest that's left out of the few who "were" young'uns. Ah well, I'm a tad too knackered to be crawling around and under cars now. Best leave it to the next generation I guess!

Reply to
Krypsis

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