ford aerostar starter solenoid problem

You installed the solenoid backwards is my first guess. There are 2 coils in those solenoids. One goed from the S terminal to ground, the other goes from the S serminal to the terminal that connects to the STARTER. If you reverse the big cables, it is now connected to the BATTERY - and now both coils are connected in series between the battery and ground at all times. Under some conditions enough current flows through those 2 coils to hold the solenoid in the engaged or energized position - so the starter does not shut off.

Properly wired, the 2 coils are in parallel. The HOLD-IN coil is grounded directly, while the PULL IN coil is grounded through the starter coils untill the solenoid engages, powering the starter.

Well i followed the way the original was setup. It had the S terminal facing upwards and the positive battery cable (along with some other wires) to the right of it..and the other cable going to the starter, to the left post. Im wondering now tho..does the starter itself have to be grounded to the bell housing of the transimission? could that be it? Either way the solenoid can only be put on one way..(it has two screws to hold it up to the sidewall..unless i flip it upside down and screw it in..but then the hood wont close)

Use an ohm-meter to check - you may have the wrong solenoid. You need to check which large terminal has continuity to the "S" terminal - and THAT one needs to connect to the starter. I've seen too many cases where the solenoid was connected wrong.

If the starter was not grounded to the bell housing it would not crank.

ok did a continuity test with one probe on the S terminal and the other probe touching either one of the larger cable terminals. It showed no continuity with either of the terminals..however..when i touch the back part of the solenoid it shows continuity. I tried doing it with the the other terminal oposite of the S terminal and no continuity there also..Does this mean its fried?

Looks like yours is a single winding solenoid, so you won't have a reversed connection problem. Not all are double wound. Mostly the ones that also operate the pre-engage drive (starter mounted) but a few remotes as well.

On a pre-engage, the current flowing through the coil starts the starter turning very slowly as the drive is pre-engaged.

Edwin, how did this turn out?

something

Several good videos on youtube - search starter ford, etc.

A decent yes/no style starter troubleshooting chart....

something

Well havent had the money lately to buy the newer negative and positive cables so it sits out there rusting away. Begining to think its the ignition switch causing it to stay stuck in the on positon. Im not sure, will have to get the newer cables and test it all

Was the ignition switch recall done on this vehicle??????? You MIGHT still get a free one.

Before diving into the ignition switch, it might save yourself a heap of = time and money by having your local mechanic isolate the problem. My = bet is that the wires got crossed.

I think I remember about that specific recall. I might have years ago but really cant remember. The vehicle is quite old and high mileage. Just want to get it running for just a work vehicle. However, in another group a guy mentioned to first test to see if the starter is drawing too much amps (he mentioned that it could be drawing too much and overheating the solenoid causing it to stick..to check all connections)

Is this the vehicle with the bad cables??? If so - REPLACE THE CABLES FIRST - voltage drop across the cables reduces the voltage to the starter, increasing current draw for the same amount of power.

It's been 3 weeks so I'm guessing this is a hobby project.

Clare is right about the ignition switch -- hit the dealer up for = replacement and the other recall items...

Tell the service manager about the starter problems (ask for the serv = mgr, not one of the sales writers) and he might tow your car free or low = cost.

and the other recall items...

one of the sales writers) and he might tow your car free or low cost.

yup, its a hobby project, and im only living off of unemployment right now, and a 50 dollar negative cable is somewhat expensive for me. So basicaly, its gonna be awhile, but ill post if it fixes it. (im quite sure its the cables...they look beat up and worn)

and the other recall items...

not one of the sales writers) and he might tow your car free or low cost.

You have a good set of jumper cables? Jump from the battery negative to a good engine ground, and from the battery Pos to the solenoid battery connection and see what happens. The good booster cablein parallel with the cable should make a more than adequate connection to see if it makes any difference - and DEFINITELY check with the dealer to see if the serial number shows up as requiring the ignition switch recall. AFAIK there is NO statute of limitations on a mandated recall.

replacement and the other recall items...

serv mgr, not one of the sales writers) and he might tow your car free = or low cost.

Holy smokes, $50!? Then here's an alternative idea for you. Get this =

3-wire cable for $10 and splice it onto your current cable. If the = existing cable doesn't look good where you cut it, get the 48-inch = single-conductor cable and splice onto it.

If you don't have O'Reilly, any brand will work -- just be sure the one = going to starter is 4-gauge and the others are at least as big diameter = as the ones you have now.

Kragen/O'Reilly Part # 08581 at $10. Kragen/O'Reilly Part # SK8448C at $9

replacement and the other recall items...

not one of the sales writers) and he might tow your car free or low cost.

3-wire cable for $10 and splice it onto your current cable. If the existing cable doesn't look good where you cut it, get the 48-inch single-conductor cable and splice onto it.

to starter is 4-gauge and the others are at least as big diameter as the ones you have now.

yeah i was thinking bout doing the same thing...doesnt look too hard.