4L60E: Hard shifts again w/57k on re-sleeved valve body?

Is another valve body failure a sure thing? Or could there be other causes?
My recollection is that the re-sleeving was supposed tb a relatively permanent
fix. But 57k on the re-sleeve vs 30-40k on the replacements doesn't seem like that much of an improvement.
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PeteCresswell

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wrote:

I am curious, are you running a aux cooler and changing fluid and filter ever 20 to 25K or so? ----------------- TheSnoMan.com
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Per SnoMan:

I got the optional towing package. Does that include an aux cooler?
No, I don't explicitly change fluid filter that often because my service guy says there's a tradeoff between frequent changes and the possibility of introducing contamination.
Having said that: --------------------------------------------------------------------- 36k: Valve body replaced and I assume there was at least a fluid change
76k: Valve body re-sleeved, ditto above
97k: Transmission serviced including fluid/filter replacement ---------------------------------------------------------------------
In my OP, I alluded to two replacements by GM instead of one. I think I was wrong in the OP - having taken some notes on the problem recurring at 67k as a replacement whereas it was not.
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PeteCresswell

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wrote:

There is a misconception on the need to change fluid. It gets grit in it and it needs to be changed because filter in it does not get the fine grit the accumulates for wear and changes remove most of this. There is not danger of contamination from changing it unless you change it is a dust storm. On the aux cooler, if it has one it will be visable in front of radiator core stack. Also, you might look for another tranny guy because this one is selling you a lot of fixs and no long term solutions. When you get it fixed again, try changing fluid every 15K or so and see what happens long term. (add a aftermarket aux cooler too if one is not present. Do you actually tow much? ----------------- TheSnoMan.com
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Per SnoMan:

I don't tow at all.
I do, however, drive at 70 mph with a bunch of stuff on the roof (large PackaSport cargo box, roof racks, windsurfers and/or surf kayak).
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PeteCresswell

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wrote:

Kinda like towing is some regards because of extra drag. What axle ratio code do you have in glove box (GT4 or GU6)? ----------------- TheSnoMan.com
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Per SnoMan:

GU6
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PeteCresswell

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wrote:

That may be "part" of your problem in that it means you have a 3.42 axle ratio which is kinda tall (real tall with a OD tranny) which means a lot of downshifts and added heating when driving at times which adds wear and strain on tranny components. At this stage you make not want to regear truck but if you have oversized tires too the tranny is working even harder still. Not trying to pick vehicle apart but rather understand its high failure rate and look for possible causes. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com
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Per SnoMan:

From various threads in this NG, I had come to believe that the valve body problem was endemic to the 4L60E transmission and that the re-sleeving would be a permanent fix.
Sounds like I'm wrong on both counts and maybe just abusing the thing beyond what it's designed for. Never had anything like this happen on any of the dozens of beaters I drove before buying this, my first new vehicle.
What would you thoughts be on just replacing the whole trans with a rebuilt version of something more robust? Or having a rebuild done on this one that converts it into something more durable?
This vehicle is said to have at least 60k miles left in it (130k on the speedo right now). I *could* replace it now, but it seems to me like those last 60k+ miles are freebies considering the thing is practically worthless in light of $3.00+ per-gallon gas - and it would be a shame to just give them away to somebody.
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wrote:

You have few options here. You could bolt in a 700R4 (the 4L60e is a 700R4 with a different electronic valve body) It would bolt it but you would get a error light from computer not seeing valve poby but 700R4 does not need a computer to shift, only to lock converter (it provides power for it) You could also install a 4L80 (91 or 92 and it is based on THM400 and a VERY sturdy tranny too)) with same results but the 700R4 would bolt right in to Tcase and mounts too as it is the exact same case. If you use a 700R4 you want a 87 or later or a older one that has been rebuilt to latest standards as all 700R4 are easily upgraded on rebuild. Properly geared and cooled for load on it the 700R4 is a very reliable tranny even in stock form. People that have problem with then have big tires and or tall gears and blame the tranny not their mods. I have a 89 4x4 burb with a 700R4 and about 189K miles on it and it has been trouble free (I bought it new) It does have a aux cooler and 3.73 gears with stock tires and I do change fluid every 20K or so too. The non computer controlled 700R4 does not downshift as much as the 4L60E does with its computer controls and reduces cycling of tranny servos. You should give some thought to regearing with 3.73's (4.10's if you are running oversized tires) as MPG will likey increase especailly in town and it will lower tranny strain and temps with or without a cooler and greatly reduce the need to down shift too. Every truck I ever drove with a 4L60 and 3.42 gears was constantly hunting around in gears in town and on grades on highway. Deep gears helps this a lot and you are not saving gas while it is hunting around either. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com
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