94 Wrangler very hard shifts...

When was the last time you checked the fluid?

Just so you know, Jeep didn't think you needed a high water vent on the tranny, so if you have done any water crossings, water in the tranny oil is also possible.

Mike

n>

I just bought it a few weeks ago, and I'm just starting to diagnose the problem. It's my understanding that the previous owner just replaced the tranny. Since it was just replaced, I'm assuming the fluid is topped off, but I don't know that for sure. Also if he put GL-5 in it, could that cause hard shifts? I'm just full of questions aren'tI. I'm not a mechanic by no means, but feel confident that I can resolve this issue.

Thanks aga> When was the last time you checked the fluid?

You should check the level for sure!

And to type, well if the level is fine then a change to the proper fluid can't hurt anything and you will know for sure that isn't an issue.

Where does the clutch pedal engage? If it is all the way to either end of it's travel, then a bleed or replace could be in order, but if it tags in the middle of the throw, not likely any trouble with it.

Mike

n>

While GL-5 is not the best possible lube in that it is harmful to the long-term health of the synchronizers, it's not normally a cause of this kind of problem.

Jerry

This sounds more like clutch disengagement, rather than a trans fluid issue. However, if the issue goes away when the trans is fully warmed up, could be the gear oil type or weight.

Is the issue worse with the trans hot or cold? If it gets better with trans oil temp, it's probably related to running a too-thick oil or the wrong additives. If not it could be clutch drag. Two easy ways to check clutch drag:- 1. Jack the driven wheels off the ground, select 1st gear and hold the clutch in, the wheels shouldn't rotate and you should be able to lift your foot about an inch at least off the floor before they start to turn. 2. Engage a gear (clutch depressed) and then carefully, slowly partially disengage it (so the synchro teeth are just lightly touching) there shouldn't be any clash or grinding until you lift your foot at least an inch (or use a non-synchro gear (better)). Be gentle though as hard grinding will damage the synchro teeth and your shifts will degrade markedly due to pointing damage. Note that the "bite" point you feel is at a higher pedal position than true clutch "spin-free" by about 1/2 to 1 inch typically, sop this allowance needs to be made or you'll wear out your synchros quickly and have hard shifts as well.

Clax. (Aussie Driveline Engineer)

Ok, guys.....I changed the tranny fluid to Amsoil 2000. No noticeable change. The shifting still is hard whether the engine is hot or cold. Checked the clutch fluid, and it's filled 3/4 full. The friction point is near mid stroke. So I'm assuming the clutch is fine. Jacked the rear and selected first gear...disengaged the clutch and the wheels rotated slightly which stopped after quick engine rev. After playing with it for a while I determined that the dragging clutch seems to be intermittent. This weekend I think I'll bleed the hydo line. Although I feel that air in the line should not be intermittent.

If the master or slave cylinder were bad and was introducing air into the system, wouldn't there be fluid leaking??

Again thanks so much for all the advice

Zak

n> I have 80,000 on my AX-5 tranny and shifting into first gear is very

I have no idea on the specs of the snake oil you put in there, but it calls for a low sulfur gear oil, a GL3 I believe someone said, but GL4 is called for.

Same deal for the friction base. If the snake oil is made for differentials, it usually will have the limited slip additive and say something like it's safe for traction devices. This will 'not' work.

When I got the correct fluid in mine, it took a little while for the shifting to come back.

Mike

n>

I'm not familiar with the Amsoil 2000 product you've mentioned. Is it the recommended grade? (check the SAE weight markings, usually in the form of

Sometimes clutch discs can start to de-laminate (break-down) or can warp slightly (potato crisp) - (especially if driven in an, ahem "spirited" manner...) This takes up the clearance when the clutch plate lifts and doesn't allow the clutch disc to fully disengage. It will still give "normal" feeling operation (bite point, torque capacity, etc) but the clutch can still drag despite the bite/engagement point feeling at a good height and the clutch bleed being OK, etc. How far did you need to lift the pedal before the wheels started to turn? Note that it would be normal for the wheels to kick a few inches around when the gear is selected (due to the inertia of the spinning disc). BTW it's best to assess this hot (after a 30 min drive or so) as this way there's less driveline drag. Note that the wheels should not rotate at all until the pedal has been lifted by an inch or more. On that point, do you have floor mats fitted? Do they go under the clutch where it meets the floor - something to check as you'll lose about a half inch there.

Good luck, Clax.

Great information Clax, nice posting of info I don't think I've ever read before. Thanks!

Jerry