Ping Doc or Gary

Two questions for you. The first is: Can you remove (or disconnect) the A.I.R. pump on a 1987 Suburban 350 without causing problems?
Second: Can you successfully weld a patch over a hole in the exhaust
manifold on the same engine? This is not my vehicle and the guy that owns it is short on cash.
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% There are two classes of pedestrians in these days of reckless motor traffic - the quick and the dead. ~ Lord Dewar 1933 ~
Climbing into a hot car is like buckling on a pistol. It is the great equalizer. ~ Henry G. Felsen 1964 ~
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Inline.............

Yes. I removed mine, 88' C1500 TBI. You'll just need a shorter belt (yours is a serp and not poly-v right?).

It's threaded. Assuming you can get the pipe out without wrecking the threads, a standard pipe plug will do the job. Sorry, I forget the size and thread pitch.
Doc
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in-in-line

87 would be V-belts, I think
and the AIR pump is by itself

or leave about an inch of the pipe in there and flatten the end, bend it over and mash it with the 18" Channel-Loks

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On Thu, 14 Oct 2004 22:40:48 GMT, "TranSurgeon"

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not since I got BFH-elbow
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On Thu, 14 Oct 2004 23:16:17 GMT, "TranSurgeon"

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On Wed, 13 Oct 2004 19:13:02 -0400, snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (Rich B) wrote:

yes, you can disconnect the AIR and you'll never know it was gone, except for slightly more power. just buy a belt for a non AIR application.. it's what I've done in my truck as I got sick of replacing broken upper mounting bolts. I think a 3/4" pipe plug will fill the boss in the manifold.
hth, Bret
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Thanks for the quick responses, I really appreciate it. I thought that removing the A.I.R. pump wouldn't hurt anything but I wasn't sure. As for the hole, it is a hole that "blew out" and is diamond-shaped (about 2-inches by 3/4-inch). I've never heard of anyone welding a patch over one of these but if all else fails, we'll get a new or used manifold to replace this one.
The '87 350 used a total of 4 belts and the A.I.R. pump has its own belt (a V-belt). There is a flat micro-groove belt for the alternator and the air conditioner and power steering pump each have their own V-belts (a real PITA if you ask me). I prefer the serpentine belts over the V-belts but you gotta work with what you have.
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% There are two classes of pedestrians in these days of reckless motor traffic - the quick and the dead. ~ Lord Dewar 1933 ~
Climbing into a hot car is like buckling on a pistol. It is the great equalizer. ~ Henry G. Felsen 1964 ~
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Cast iron is next to impossible to weld. Your best bet would actually be to run the engine until they are red hot. (Should just get that way, or you can make it "fast idle", red hot is a very specific temperature, and determined IN THE DARK. Red hot in the light is ***FAR*** past red hot) Then stop the engine, so nothing will be blowing by, and weld it up **FAST**. Then turn the engine back on, and run it for a bit longer. Then throw a blanket or what not over the truck to try to keep the engine bay as warm as possible, and shut it off. Let it cool off a bit, and then start the truck again. Then let it cool off. That is the ONLY way I could think it might be possible to fix on the truck, and even this might not do it. :-(
I'd go for a used manifold &/or used headers. I have some headers for a 1985 K5 w/ 305. I welded the flange at the collectors (lazy fix) but I'd sell 'em cheap, since I don't even know the brand.
Southern NH.
GMC Gremlin

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Denny
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