a mate of mine has an X reg 320 and we cannot shift the front ABS caliper
pistons back into their shell to allow fitting of new pads.
Do we need a special tool, like the one I have for GM, that twists the
piston whilst squeezing it back in?
Any help greatlfully received - his wife wants to use the car tomorrow and
he's in great danger of losing every brownie point he's ever earned (not
many actually !! )
All you need do is use a C-clamp to push the pistons back inside the caliper
If you are careful, you can wedge an appropriate prying device between the
caliper and a brake pad, and force the caliper open by prying. (You have to
be cautious so as to avoid scratching the rotor.)
Speaking of rotors, did you measure them to be sure they are not worn to the
minimum spec that is printed on them?
Not necessarily. Back in the dark old days when I drove a Bummer (up
last year), unless the calipers were original (which I could easily
back in) these things will freeze out, and they simply won't budge.
a strong guy to begin with, but even a big C clamp didn't do the job
the fluid bleed open.
Oh, the memories. A list of problems over those 8 years that was
half as long as my arm, including the shitty GM transmission they put
the "ultimate driving machines" going south at 85K miles--nearly $4
to replace. I drive an '09 Honda Accord now. Pure bliss and looking
forward to years of bliss!
Yeah, like their transmissions, and their electronic components,
and their blower motors, and their cat. converters, and their rubber
molding, etc., etc.,etc.
The Accord drives fine. Like most Hondas, it's very light on its
although it's actually a pretty heavy car--the Accord is considered
a mid-sized car now. And it is a HELL of a lot more comfortable
than the bummer was.
Not had a problem with any of these on my 10 year old E39. Except the
final stage resistor - easily changed.
But hey - if reliability is the only important thing for you - you're
probably right in buying a Honda. Or Toyota. Everyone has to retire and
slow down some time.
*It's not hard to meet expenses... they're everywhere.
Dave Plowman email@example.com London SW
Original calipers? Big deal.
I've been working on cars (shadetree stuff for my own fleet) for 40+ years
and never replaced a caliper.
My first BMW topped 225K miles on the original calipers. I've had Hondas
that were closing in on 200K miles with no reason to think the calipers were
Brake fluid makes sense though ...
It was an *example*. The point is this: Brake fluid is hygroscopic. If
you don't change it, water vapor eventually gets past the seals (even if
they are good, they are rarely perfect). When that happens, corrosion
starts. I've replaced any number of calipers that were corroded, many
of which would not retract. After the first time it happened to me,
30-something years ago, and I started to change brake fluid from time to
time, none of them have been mine.
(So far, the record for me is 264K on a 1972 Datsun 510. The Accord and
our two E46s might very well break that record handily if we don't hit
too many deer with them....)
ISTR reading that engine/gearbox combos had to be type approved in the
US which cost mucho-wonga. Perhaps using a home grown box got round this
Alternatively, perhaps the ratios were better suited to US driving.
Fifth on my ZF boxed 325 was so long that it probably wouldn't have got
into it at 55mph.
 Don't forget, this is 15+ years ago. I know limits are higher now.
Where are we going and why am I in this handbasket?
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