Removing staked collar nut? E39

How exactly does one remove and install a staked collar nut? It looks like it would need a special socket since on my 99 528i it needs torqued down to 300Nm.
Second, if I remove it do I need a new one to replace it with?
Last, what's the best place to get self-locking nuts for the read-end components? I'll be changing my rear wheel bearings once I know I can correctly remove/install the collar nut.
Thanks,
Scott
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Scott wrote:

Use a punch to know the stake back out.. I assume it's staked into a slot on the threads it is screwed on to?

Best practices says yes - although I have known them to be reused. Trick is if the staked section ends up in the same spot as it was before - it may be too weak to be staked back into the slot.

Perhaps a dealer?

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I'll be interested to see how you get on with this, as I think I need to do mine soon as well.
The BMW TIS system tells you this:
http://www.randcjones.plus.com/website/RA Replacing Bearing.pdf
The bit that's putting me off a DIY effort is not knowing if the driveshaft flange is going to come off with half the bearing still attached (and it it does, how the hell do you get those bits off again?), and also if the flange needs to be pressed back into the new bearing?
Where did you get the bearing puller tool from?
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sorry...duff link.
Try this
http://www.randcjones.plus.com/website/RA%20%20Replacing%20Bearing.pdf
Also, yes, collar nuts are a dealer part and are only about 3
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Here is the bearing removal and installation tool. http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/BMWM/POR_BMWM_TOOLS1_pg1.htm
I bought the bearings, bolts, and new collar nuts from bavauto.com
I'll be changing the bearings next weekend and I'll be sure to photo document the whole process.
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how did you get on mate?
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I'm stuck right now. The directions that came with the tool are no where near where I think they should be.
According to the Bently service manual the axel stub needs to be pressed out and then pulled back in after the bearings have been changed.
But, according to the directions with the bearing tool the bearings need pushed out and then back in. I do not see how that is possible based on the replacement bearings and the fact the axel stubs still need to be handled.
I'm looking for more information, I don't want to experiment on my car, I need to find information showing it done. The bently manual doesn't show much and explains things extremely basically.
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Just did a wheel bearing (rear) on my 89 325i and it was an adventure. The nut was a pain in the ass to get off until we actually put the tire on the car and set it back on the ground using a breaker bar to remove it. Air impact wrench was useless on it. Once the axle shaft was removed and the hub tapped out with a soft hammer, the bearing had to be removed. It was obviously bad (it could be felt when turning it) so I wasn't concerned with it. After beating the hell out of it (yes, I removed the snap ring first) with a hammer and a piece of pipe to no avail, I resorted to a flame wrench. Cleaned everything up and put it all back together. MUCH better... Perfectly quiet rear end at over 100mph again... Forgot how quiet it used to be!!!

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Russ,
Best I could find in any forum is a guy who used a slide hammer to remove the bearing hub assembly and then tapped the bearing into place lightly with a sledge hammer! He said it took 20 minutes if light tapping to get it to the point he could tighten the bolts to get it all the way in.
Still searching, if I don't find a sure fire way I'm returning the parts and just taking it in to the shop.
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Aaah....I see you've got to the same stage I did then! Lol!
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haha. The guy who runs the shop said he never heard of a bearing going bad in an E39. He thinks I hit something and bent the left rear axel but I won't be taking it in until Monday. I listened to the bearings using a automotive stethoscope and it's pretty obvious it's coming right from the hub assembly and not within the rearend housing.
So I'm looking at 2 1/2 hours labor per side. Should get both sides done. The kicker is I hit some tire tread on the highway Monday and now my front right side makes a similiar noise. I'm hoping it's just plastic or something making a rumbling sound from the wind hitting it.
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that's interesting.
He's obviously not seen the BMW Technical Bulletin about e39s produced prior to June 1997 having crap seals on the rear wheel bearings that let in water and lead to premature wear and noisy bearings then!
What exactly is your problem...is it a vibration or a noise?
The reason I ask is that I've got a slight vibration/humming coming from the rear at about 65-70mph - above or below that speed, you can't really hear it at all.
I thought it'd be the wheel bearing, having done 82k miles and already replaced the fronts about a year ago.
I know I've not hit anything to bend things.
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You just unscrew it.

Yes.
Same place as you get the bearings from?
--
*Everyone has a photographic memory. Some don't have film *

Dave Plowman snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk London SW
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So this is easier than I think?
I just tap out the stake back and unscrew the collar.
Remove the calipers, abs sensor, and outer swing arm.
Use the bearing tool to remove the bearing.
Then re-assemble in reverse?
I think I was just thrown off because in the bently service manual under the re-assembly tightening torques is shows the rear axle shaft to hub needing 300Nm of torque. I don't need to touch that at all do I?
If that's it, I'll photo document the process and send it in to BMWtips.com.
Thanks again,
Scott Basically I'm just sliding out the bearings and sliding new ones right back in, correct?
This sounds to easy.
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