removing valve cover - what size nut?

30mm That's also the size you need for the axle nut, but for that you'll probably want one suitable for use with an air wrench, or at minimum a six point socket. Since Sears only had 12 pt. 30mm socket, I've got two (but no I don't lend tools). :?)

securing the valve cover to the 5S-FE engine?

Oh thanks.

Looks like this can work:

Looks like AutoZone also lends tools...

Michael

Those are fine for the valve cover, but exercise caution in using the inexpensive Chinese sourced impact sockets elsewhere. I know you favor inexpensive tools, but I did find a special purpose axle socket at Kragen Auto Parts for about the price of your whole set. Axle nut torque is 238 ft. lbs., but could take a lot more if stuck. That 30mm Kragen axle nut socket for around $17 is very solid. Actually I have a Harbor Freight impact socket set just like your link, and it is fine for light duty. When I tried removing the bolts to the control arm - in fairness they are extraordinarily tight and threaded into the frame such that penetrating oil will not reach - anyway, after some time of impact gun hammering without success, stress fractures appeared as lines along the length of the socket at the end of each "flat" on the socket interior, so I stopped and returned the part for an exchange before it completely fractured and broke open, possibly with dangerous consequences. How did Clint Eastwood put it? You've got to know your (socket's) limitations.

I certainly wouldn't use an impact socket to remove / install my valve cover nuts... I'd just use my torque wrench.

Thanks for the info on the stress fractures. I just got a 12V electric impact wrench from H. Freight (was on sale for $19.99). I'll be lots more careful with that...

Michael

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I'm a little reluctant to use hammer-guns unless said nut loosens pretty quickly. Often after using such a tool for a few goes, the nut starts to get damaged. Agree the socket has to be a quality type which is almost an interference fit. One trick was to use a fractional size less (1/32" less), so the socket had zero slop on the nut or had to be tapped on. In the past, I've found using a quality socket-set with a sliding drive-bar with a piece of stout pipe works well, especially suspension/transmission nuts. The sliding drive bar is about 9" long with the drive able to slide along the piece of steel rod. This places the point of leverage as close to the nut as possible, minimising any tendency for the socket to torque off the nut. Agree however, that a 3/4' drive socket is a better way for heavy torqued nuts such as stub-axle nuts tho.

Jason

I would recommend that after you torqued down the cover, wait 30 minutes and retorque again.

Never need to use an impact wrench. The Harbor Freight $9.99 2ft 1/2" breaker bar works wonders.

AT LAST........3/4 drive is the ONLY way to deal with driveline nuts/ bolts. An impact gun for $19.99(im guessing USD) and 12 volt .....mmmm good for the kids to play with. Impact guns are a great tool if they are used correctly and are of good quality........used incorectly or el cheapo an absolute DANGER to all involved. TOURQUE wrench on a valve cover??????mmmmm ok then