Transmission Problems 1999 323i

I have an automatic 1999 323I with 120K miles on it. The car has been shaking for the last 2 months when I decelerate and sometimes also when I accelerate quickly. The problem is worse when I first start the car
and start driving and gets better after about 15 minutes of driving but the problem still exists when I am driving. How much should I pay to get my transmission replaced? Should I get a new transmission, reconditioned, or one they just take out of an old car? Any other advice?
Thanks
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is it yours ? http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BJ83&mospidG474&btnr $_062 5&hg$&fg
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what about getting a rebuilt or used one? A new transmission is a lot of money.
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any guarantee that used one is better than yours ? maybe general repairment would be an option but only in GOOD service I repaired main (5HP18), new 6k$, repairment "only" 2,5k$ but I've seen it from inside and all spare parts that came from ZF
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Are you sure its the transmission? Usually tranny problems show when the car shifts, not a shake while running. Check the guibo (flex disc coupling or universal joint depending on who's calling it) where the driveshaft meets the transmission. This rubber part commonly wears out and will give a shaking sensation like you describe. See part #1 on the RealOEM link.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AM33&mospidG718&btnr &_0129&hg&&fg
Kyle. 98 740iL 01 525i
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thanks for all of the advice. The car does not shake if I am in a gear and driving - only when the automatic shifts as I accelerate or and especially when I decellerate.
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Daniel Daniel wrote:

You still haven't determined if the problem IS with the transmission or some other part of the driveline. You may be replacing a perfectly good transmission when the fault could be a $20 rubber coupling.
--
Don

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Thanks again for more advice. I am trying to find time to bring my car to the mechanic but just want to make sure I have all the information.
Previously when my car was inspected the mechanic indicated the transmission was going bad which was why I'm under that impression. Just to give me a ballpark what would be good prices to pay for rebuilt or one they pop out of another car? I'm going to sell the car within 6 months I just want it to run well when I sell it but don't neccesarily care about another 40,000 miles.
Thanks!
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One question when was the last time you changed the transmisson oil? Despite BMW insistance that it is "lifetime", if your guibo or center bearing are not causing the problem, you may want to change the oil. If so, try a synthetic like Redline or Purple Royal, both good stuff!
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Try holding the car stationary on the footbrake and use a lot of throttle in drive. This should take the torque convertor up to its 'stall' speed. Should rev to about 2300 rpm. If it doesn't make this (say about 1600 rpm) and it judders, it's the torque convertor that's shot.
(Don't do this test for more than a few seconds, or repeat quickly - it will overheat the transmission)
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London SW

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It's the standard way of testing a torque convertor. And they can cause shudder when in operation if faulty. It will also show up clutch slip.
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Dave Plowman snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk London SW
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This could be a lot of things, but IMHO most likely prop shaft (), worn universal joint () or differential () as opposed to gearbox ()
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