1994 Ford Explorer

Do any of the windows operate from their local switch?

Tom has PMed me with a reply but I prefer to discuss the diagnosis of the circuit on the NG so that we can all benefit from the process and offer input. He replied that none of the windows worked from any of the switch positions..

One of the big considerations in checking the fuses is the possibility of a missing fuse. This has caught many of us with our pants down... tech and DIYer alike. On this 94 Ex, fuse F2-11 (that's fuse number 11 in the underdash fuse panel) should be a 30 amp. If the fuse is present and tests good with a test light... a voltmeter is not a good choice for this diagnosis.... we move on to the drivers door switch.

Since all of the windows are involved and there is no indication that they have failed one by one, we should be fairly safe in assuming that this will be a simple power or ground concern. I prefer to use a home built "extension" cord so that I can connect my test equipment directly to the battery posts.... mine is 30 feet long and cost less than $10 to fabricate.......

Remove the drivers door switch and locate the light blue with black trace wire (hopefully Ford didn't decide to swap colours on us). With the key in Accessory or Run position and the lead on the test light to ground, the lamp should light. Move the test lamp lead to battery+ feed and probe the black wire. The lamp should light.

If one or both of these fails, remembering that the vehicle is 12 years old, the most likely place we will find a concern is inside the bellows between the drivers A pillar and the drivers door.

A good quality repair may be a little difficult since we wont want our splice in the area that bends...

HTH

Oh.... you're welcome, tom....