Wife had an interesting problem recently: 96 Taurus started and ran just fine but wouldn't stop. She pulled the negative lead to the battery in the end (good training). Anyway, ignition switch checks out, lock cylinder is fine so it looks like the linkage between the two. I know in the mk. 2 Taurus (thru a Google search and some hits on this group) the steering column had to be dropped to get at it. Is it the same in the 96 model?
Thanks in advance.
Jimbo
sounds like a stuck relay check power distribution center
hurc ast
It's definitely the linkage between the ignition switch and the lock cylinder. Any ideas how to take out the linkage?
drop colum
hurc ast
Damn fine advice... drop column and then what???
You still don't get it.
When you drop the column, you will need to remove the key cyl. turn the key to "on" position and push in the small silver button underneath. PASSIVE ANTI-THEFT CAN BE DAMAGED IF NOT CAREFUL. do NOT damage the little plastic collar around the key cyl if it has one, your car wont run.
If I remember correctly, at this point, you will have to remove the shift linkage (Except LS and floor shift models) from there, you should be home free...It's a small shaft that you will have to re-clock to get it into the correct position. If you haven't ever done it...be careful, it will be frusterating. If it's not cloked correctly, the "on" position might be "start" or "acc".
Hope this helps.
Kenn
Thanks. I unscrewed ignition switch and the linkage seems to move as it's supposed to - is it possible that it just slipped out of place?
Right now, ignition switch is hanging down below column but everything runs just fine. Looks like the plastic collar you mention has a bent contact (brother in law took it off) so chimes come on when key is out and door is open.
Jimbo
That was my point, Kenn.... The advice was "drop column". Without knowing the skill set or experience of the recipient of the advice, it is prudent to add what to look for, if any special tools are required and if there any "gotchas". Additionally, there may be others viewing the thread that the thread may apply to. Their skill set may be vastly different from the person offering the original question.
Most folks come to these types of NGs to save money.. in many cases, money they don't have. This is an important consideration when giving advice. We need to give as accurate an assessment as we can with the information we have and we have a real need to replace "shotgun" repairs using expensive parts with sound diagnostics using relatively inexpensive self-performed labour. Not to mention that "self-performed" labour is a nifty way to justify buying new tools.
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