Checking Radiator Cooling

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Guv Bob wrote:


Not unless you had something leaking oil/trans fluid into the coolant. The flush itself will clean out the crud. The last flush of clean water is just to make sure all the flush is gone as well as anything that might have come out of the old rad.
If you follow the steps it's simple. Pull the heater hoses, reverse flush the heater core with water. loop a hose to bypass the heater core, pull the thermostat, and dump in the cooling system flush. Let that circulate a while to break up and clean the system. Pull the radiator hoses and drop the old coolant/flush and crud. Stick the hose in the top rad hose and let it run to flush the block. Install the new radiator, Thermostat and re-connect the heater. Fill the system and burp it. Enjoy a cooler running car.
--
Steve W.

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wrote:

and

the

it

in

clear

and

water

in

the

The flush you're talking about - does that contain acid?
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Guv Bob wrote:

Yes. Almost as acidic as vinegar. Nothing to hurt the system but I don't like running it through the heater core.
--
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On Mon, 28 Apr 2014 07:17:49 -0800, "Guv Bob"

Many good radiator flushed are caustic rather than acidic. A lot of the older style cleaners used oxalic acid.
Many truck shops are using Cascade automatic dishwasher detergent with dawn. Disolve fully in very hot water and add to cooling system, run untill hot, drain and flush. 1/4 cup should be more than enough for your Ford. Cascade is caustic.
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wrote:

scale

system.

piece

core and

the

use the

all

the

and it

in

rad. in

clear

clean and

coolant.

water

dump in

and

Stick

Fill the

Thanks. I'm thinking about leaving the thermostat in during the flush. It's a bear getting it out. Last time I sheared off one of the bolts.
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wrote:

Thanks. I'm thinking about leaving the thermostat in during the flush. It's a bear getting it out. Last time I sheared off one of the bolts.
+++++++++++++++++++++++ You can pull the hoses and flush the radiator without touching the t-stat, but if you want to flush the block too then the t-stat will be in the way. You can also disconnect the heater hoses where they connect to the engine and flush water through the heater.
For all of the questions here, you might be better off if you take the car to the shop.
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wrote:

few

would

scale

acid

system.

piece

core

the

use

petcock all

the

and

it in

rad. in

clear

clean

coolant.

water

that

dump in

and

Stick

Fill

with

flush.

t-stat,

way.

engine

car

Yes, that is definitely the better choice. Budget is a little tight right now and the long-time radiator place went out of business this year. Autozone life-time radiator is $100 plus they send you a $25 gift card. New unknown shop cost total is $275++ with 90 day warranty P/L. Normally that's OK, but right now, I'm eating beans until some $$ comes in.
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On Mon, 28 Apr 2014 23:38:45 -0800, "Guv Bob"

I would recommend pulling the stat (also recommend anti-sieze on the stat bolts!!) but you CAN flush through the heater hoses.. Not nearly as easy or effective.
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wrote:

few

would

flush

scale

acid

system.

metal

piece

core and

of the

to use the

the

petcock all

tells the

radiator and it

blocked.

it in

rad. in

with clear

clean and

coolant.

clean water

that

dump in

and

Stick

Fill the

with

run

for

flush. It's a bear getting it out. Last time I sheared off one of the bolts.

Yeah, I know about greasing bolts. From the looks of the thermostat, that was the first time the housing had been removed since 97. Original thermostat turned out to be fine, by the way....
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wrote:

few

would

flush

scale

acid

system.

metal

piece

core and

of the

to use the

the

petcock all

tells the

radiator and it

blocked.

it in

rad. in

with clear

clean and

coolant.

clean water

that

dump in

and

Stick

Fill the

with

run

for

flush. It's a bear getting it out. Last time I sheared off one of the bolts.

Yeah, I know about greasing bolts. From the looks of the thermostat, that was the first time the housing had been removed since 97. Original thermostat turned out to be fine, by the way....
--

Well, I got to Steps 1 & 2. The radiator came today and I put it in
the garage. Developing.....
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wrote:

scale

system.

piece

core and

the

use the

all

the

and it

in

rad. in

clear

clean and

coolant.

water

dump in

and

Stick

Fill the

Can anyone recommend a particular brand of flush that is not acid? Autozone here only carries Prestone and the lable lists it as having "citric acid." I'm hesistating getting that because I just want to clean the sludge out, not remove rust.
Only other place around me is O'Reillys. So if they only have acid types, I'll add some dishwashing powder and run it for a few days. Any negatives about that?
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On Sat, 3 May 2014 15:18:45 -0800, "Guv Bob"

Citric acid is pretty mild - but I'd try the dishwasher detergent for half an hour or so at operating temp as a first try.
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wrote:

few

would

flush

scale

acid

system.

metal

piece

core and

of the

to use the

the

petcock all

tells the

radiator and it

blocked.

it in

rad. in

with clear

clean and

coolant.

clean water

that

dump in

and

Stick

Fill the

with

run

for

Autozone here only carries Prestone and the lable lists it as having "citric acid." I'm hesistating getting that because I just want to clean the sludge out, not remove rust.

types, I'll add some dishwashing powder and run it for a few days. Any negatives about that?

Another mechanic buddy recommended adding a box of baking soda. Sounds like a good idea for a sound system. But not knowing how mine is right now, I'll stick with the soap and water flush and see how it holds up in 6 months.
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On Sun, 4 May 2014 09:02:32 -0800, "Guv Bob"

Adding baking soda neutralizes the acid. You can do this AFTER an acid flush. If you put it in with the flush it will make the flush ineffective, and blow all the water out of the rad as it fizzes up!!
You also want to make sure the pH of your coolant is within range when you are done. Too high (alkaline) and the rad will scale up. Too low (acid)and it will corrode. You want it within a few points of neutral. Add the buffer in small amounts, recheching after a few minutes of running to make sure the mixture is complety mixed.
A good idea to check pH annually and correct. This extends the life of the coolant SIGNIFICANTLY by avoiding corrosion and scaling.
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wrote:

automatic

for few

would

flush

and scale

acid

the system.

metal

one piece

heater core and

rest of the

hesitant to use the

the

petcock all

tells the

radiator and it

blocked.

flush it in

old rad. in

with clear

it's clean and

coolant.

clean water

anything that

water.

and dump in

up and

crud. Stick

block.

heater. Fill the

of

detergent with

run

for

Autozone here only carries Prestone and the lable lists it as having "citric acid." I'm hesistating getting that because I just want to clean the sludge out, not remove rust.

acid types, I'll add some dishwashing powder and run it for a few days. Any negatives about that?

for

Sounds like a good idea for a sound system. But not knowing how mine is right now, I'll stick with the soap and water flush and see how it holds up in 6 months.

Thanks, where do you find the pH strips? There used to be hobby shops that carried chemistry sets and components like this, but I guess that's considered "hazardous materials" these days.
By the way, I drained the system today and remembered that I had used orange colored coolant last time. I'll used green this time -- easier to see if there's a problem later on.
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On 5/5/2014 2:18 AM, Guv Bob wrote:

Pool Supply stores...They can come in a plastic bottle that looks like a aspirin bottle...They only cost a few bucks for a ton of them (meant to check pool water PH every day) so you might want to look for a small qty.
If you yearn for the good 'ol days, you can get the chemistry type pool set...Those are the ones where you fill the tube up, put a few drops of the PH dye in, shake and hold it up in the sun to compare the color to the color chart mounted next to it...
There are all sorts of ways to waste you $$ :)
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wrote:

The "titration" kit is more accurate than the strips, but more fuss.
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Bob I think the Orange coolant might be a GM long life (dexcool maybe?).
I seem to recall if you mix it with the green (old style antifreeze) it turns into a brown sludge. I've swapped coolant types and seen the results without lots of flushing first. It just looks like chocolate sauce.
HTH Mitch
--
Terminal_Crazy

Mitch - 1995 Z28 LT1 M6 terminal snipped-for-privacy@sand-hill.freeserve.co.uk
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message wrote:

used

easier

maybe?).

it

sauce.

That's exactly what this looks like. I looked at a gallon that has been sitting for a couple of weeks. It's clear but the color of dark ice tea. I remember that the label said "can be used with any...." Will stick with green this time.
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On Mon, 05 May 2014 18:59:57 +0100, Terminal Crazy

There is a "pink" coolant that was used by Toyota and lots of other manufacturers that is NOT dexcool, or dexcool compatible.
Dexcool is just a difficult way to spell trouble.
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