Engine runs hot in idle

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Told you you had to burp it :-)
--
SC Tom



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LOL!! I'm Ok with that - as long as it doesn't start pooping.
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Welp! Mine is a sad and goofy tail.... I mean tale...
I thought, what the heck (sorry ladies).... I'll change the thermostat. Wrong. I busted off both bolts. Now I have to remove fifty hoses and assemblies just to get in there and drill them out. 15 minute job turned into a weekend and likely won't solve the problem.
I did notice that the old thermostate didn't have a breather hole (or whatever you call it) that lets a small amount of fluid bypass the main valve. Replacement has a 1/8-inch hole. Feller at the radiator shop said that was so that the valve would sense the temperature better. I don't know if I believe that or not - metal conducts heat very well and I doubt it makes that much difference. But then I ain't famous for my automotive nolige.
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On Sat, 13 Oct 2012 22:13:20 -0700, "Guv Bob"

I busted off both bolts. Now I have to remove fifty hoses and assemblies just to get in there and drill them out. 15 minute job turned into a weekend and likely won't solve the problem.

you call it) that lets a small amount of fluid bypass the main valve. Replacement has a 1/8-inch hole. Feller at the radiator shop said that was so that the valve would sense the temperature better. I don't know if I believe that or not - metal conducts heat very well and I doubt it makes that much difference. But then I ain't famous for my automotive nolige. Some engines require the little breather hole to allow a little bit of circulation with the stat closed - basically to allow air out when filling - but also to allow a bit more even warmup. Some engines don't need it. The premium stat I bought for my 4.0 Ranger does not have it. The one I removed (not an OEM) did.
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wrote:

Well, I learned one thing today. This engine has 2 "water temp sensors" -- I called them "temp sensors" but evidently that throws some of the part counter folks these daze.
Standing in front of the car, the one on the left is for the gauge, one on the right is for the computer. After market versions of the computer side sensor don't match up with the cable, so be sure and get the factory sensor - it's $15 (cheaper than after market here). Don't do like I did and break off the connector trying to get the after market version to fit. Now I'm stuck getting a new plug and sensor. Plug is $20+...... Will try to solder the leads first (free).
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Well, I learned one thing today. This engine has 2 "water temp sensors" -- I called them "temp sensors" but evidently that throws some of the part counter folks these daze.
Standing in front of the car, the one on the left is for the gauge, one on the right is for the computer. After market versions of the computer side sensor don't match up with the cable, so be sure and get the factory sensor - it's $15 (cheaper than after market here). Don't do like I did and break off the connector trying to get the after market version to fit. Now I'm stuck getting a new plug and sensor. Plug is $20+...... Will try to solder the leads first (free).
===
And the epic saga continues -- did I say I broke off both thermostat housing mounting bolts trying to get them loose? Yep, tried penetration oil, heating, banging on them etc and they would not budget. I tried removing them with bolt extractor but it wouldn't budge either. So I drilled them (they are 10mm) with 1/4-20 tap, replaced the thermostat and broken temp sensor and am back in fat city again. Supposed to be in the 90's tomorrow - will be a good test for overheating.
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Well, I learned one thing today. This engine has 2 "water temp sensors" -- I called them "temp sensors" but evidently that throws some of the part counter folks these daze.
Standing in front of the car, the one on the left is for the gauge, one on the right is for the computer. After market versions of the computer side sensor don't match up with the cable, so be sure and get the factory sensor - it's $15 (cheaper than after market here). Don't do like I did and break off the connector trying to get the after market version to fit. Now I'm stuck getting a new plug and sensor. Plug is $20+...... Will try to solder the leads first (free).
===
OK, update #500... it took me 3 days (interrupted by work and honey-do stuff) but I finally got the thermostat bolts ground off, retapped, broke off the taps, tapped another place, broke them off, etc... This repeated for several days. Finally I slowed down and drilled/tapped two good holes. Replaced the thermostat (nothing wrong with old one), replaced the temp sender for the gauge (turned out nothing wrong with the old one there either), broke the temp sender unit for computer (was ready to break anyway...).
Still running hot intermittantly. Looks to me like the new fan clutch is not working properly, so I'm going to drill and tap the old one (I'm getting good at this now) it so that the blades are fixed and spin all the time and see how that works.
If that doesn't help, I'm back to where I started. Any other ideas?
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Well, I learned one thing today. This engine has 2 "water temp sensors" -- I called them "temp sensors" but evidently that throws some of the part counter folks these daze.
Standing in front of the car, the one on the left is for the gauge, one on the right is for the computer. After market versions of the computer side sensor don't match up with the cable, so be sure and get the factory sensor - it's $15 (cheaper than after market here). Don't do like I did and break off the connector trying to get the after market version to fit. Now I'm stuck getting a new plug and sensor. Plug is $20+...... Will try to solder the leads first (free).
===
OK, update #500... it took me 3 days (interrupted by work and honey-do stuff) but I finally got the thermostat bolts ground off, retapped, broke off the taps, tapped another place, broke them off, etc... This repeated for several days. Finally I slowed down and drilled/tapped two good holes. Replaced the thermostat (nothing wrong with old one), replaced the temp sender for the gauge (turned out nothing wrong with the old one there either), broke the temp sender unit for computer (was ready to break anyway...).
Still running hot intermittantly. Looks to me like the new fan clutch is not working properly, so I'm going to drill and tap the old one (I'm getting good at this now) it so that the blades are fixed and spin all the time and see how that works.
If that doesn't help, I'm back to where I started. Any other ideas?
===
Now after running a few days, the temp seems to be stable at around 1/3 of the scale. Used to stay at mid-range. Old thermostat was stamped 190 degrees and new one is 192. Will keep monitoring it and hopefully no "breaking" news....
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Well, I learned one thing today. This engine has 2 "water temp sensors" -- I called them "temp sensors" but evidently that throws some of the part counter folks these daze.
Standing in front of the car, the one on the left is for the gauge, one on the right is for the computer. After market versions of the computer side sensor don't match up with the cable, so be sure and get the factory sensor - it's $15 (cheaper than after market here). Don't do like I did and break off the connector trying to get the after market version to fit. Now I'm stuck getting a new plug and sensor. Plug is $20+...... Will try to solder the leads first (free).
===
OK, update #500... it took me 3 days (interrupted by work and honey-do stuff) but I finally got the thermostat bolts ground off, retapped, broke off the taps, tapped another place, broke them off, etc... This repeated for several days. Finally I slowed down and drilled/tapped two good holes. Replaced the thermostat (nothing wrong with old one), replaced the temp sender for the gauge (turned out nothing wrong with the old one there either), broke the temp sender unit for computer (was ready to break anyway...).
Still running hot intermittantly. Looks to me like the new fan clutch is not working properly, so I'm going to drill and tap the old one (I'm getting good at this now) it so that the blades are fixed and spin all the time and see how that works.
If that doesn't help, I'm back to where I started. Any other ideas?
===
Now after running a few days, the temp seems to be stable at around 1/3 of the scale. Used to stay at mid-range. Old thermostat was stamped 190 degrees and new one is 192. Will keep monitoring it and hopefully no "breaking" news....
===
Last post on this one.... After several weeks, no more temp problems. Comes up to temp and stays right on. If I idle like at a drive-thru, it increases a little but never gets over 50-60% of scale.
To recap.... I replaced the fan clutch first, and still overheated. Then swapped out the thermostat and the outlet temp sensor which had frayed wires. Don't know if it was the thermostat or the sensor, but both were low dollar and no more overheating.
After going thru this exercise, the only advice I have is to do the same thing I did. Only try not to shear off the thermostat bolts like I did -- grinding down the bolts and drill/tapping new holes added a couple of days to an otherwise simple job.
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Thanks. Any idea about what this might be...
A few weeks ago I had the radiator flushed and the coolant was normal color but it left a white stain left on the floor where some had spilled. This was a reputable radiator shop known for many years and long time workers but didn't know what it could be. The other day, I was checking it and splashed some out around the cap. Fresh coolant but left the same white stain.
http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/3353/gedc0883.jpg
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Looks almost like a stop-leak I had used a long, long time ago. It came out of the can like half-and-half for coffee, thick and white. The person who worked on it has no idea what he put in?
--
SC Tom



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No - that is the strange part. He just refilled it with the usual coolant and anti-rust. It was like that before it was flushed out, too. Fluid both before and after was normal greenish color.
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On 8/28/2012 3:05 PM, Guv Bob wrote:

anti-rust. It was like that before it was flushed out, too. Fluid both before and after was normal greenish color.
I recall something like this years ago caused by oil getting into the water.
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