Engine runs hot in idle

coolant and anti-rust. It was like that before it was flushed out, too. = Fluid both before and after was normal greenish color.

Hmmm... thanks. That's not good.

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"uncouple",

intermittent

likely problem too. Shroud, distance to radiator, blockage all are = fine.

cold, they both have the same resistance to turning. When the engine = is hot, I turn it off and turn the fan blade and it doesn't feel any = different.

since it's easy. Them I'm thinking about bolting down the fan so that = it turns the same hot or cold. Always though these fan clutches were a = dumb idea.

road speed to come up to temperature, but only about 5 minutes if start = and sit in the driveway.

I'm hardly driving it these days and have been putting off changed the = thermostat or investigated any further. Any idea what kind of damage = (if any) it would do to run at 90% of full scale for an extended length = of time? It never has reached full scale. Already checked out the = sensor and gauge and they seem to be reading properly.

problem too. Shroud, distance to radiator, blockage all are fine.

they both have the same resistance to turning. When the engine is hot, I turn it off and turn the fan blade and it doesn't feel any different.

it's easy. Them I'm thinking about bolting down the fan so that it turns the same hot or cold. Always though these fan clutches were a dumb idea.

speed to come up to temperature, but only about 5 minutes if start and sit in the driveway.

thermostat or investigated any further. Any idea what kind of damage (if any) it would do to run at 90% of full scale for an extended length of time? It never has reached full scale. Already checked out the sensor and gauge and they seem to be reading properly.

overheating can soften the rings, reduce lubrication, causing bearing failure, and warp heads etc. Not a good idea to ignore. You might want to check to be sure the temp guage is reading close to accurate too.

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temperatures, it

overheats at

the likely problem too. Shroud, distance to radiator, blockage all are = fine.

is cold, they both have the same resistance to turning. When the = engine is hot, I turn it off and turn the fan blade and it doesn't feel = any different.

thermostat since it's easy. Them I'm thinking about bolting down the = fan so that it turns the same hot or cold. Always though these fan = clutches were a dumb idea.

at road speed to come up to temperature, but only about 5 minutes if = start and sit in the driveway.

the thermostat or investigated any further. Any idea what kind of = damage (if any) it would do to run at 90% of full scale for an extended = length of time? It never has reached full scale. Already checked out = the sensor and gauge and they seem to be reading properly.

Welp! Last weekend it started to get hot, so I let it cool down and = checked the coolant. Added about a quart of coolant. I squeezed the = hose at the thermostat a few times to get out as much air as I could, = but that's all. Since then no troubles.

Told you you had to burp it :-)

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news:DqGdnRzwMrJVHrTNnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@earthlink.com...

temperatures,=20

LOL!! I'm Ok with that - as long as it doesn't start pooping.

Welp! Mine is a sad and goofy tail.... I mean tale...

I thought, what the heck (sorry ladies).... I'll change the thermostat. = Wrong. I busted off both bolts. Now I have to remove fifty hoses and = assemblies just to get in there and drill them out. 15 minute job = turned into a weekend and likely won't solve the problem.

I did notice that the old thermostate didn't have a breather hole (or = whatever you call it) that lets a small amount of fluid bypass the main = valve. Replacement has a 1/8-inch hole. Feller at the radiator shop = said that was so that the valve would sense the temperature better. I = don't know if I believe that or not - metal conducts heat very well and = I doubt it makes that much difference. But then I ain't famous for my = automotive nolige.

I busted off both bolts. Now I have to remove fifty hoses and assemblies just to get in there and drill them out. 15 minute job turned into a weekend and likely won't solve the problem.

you call it) that lets a small amount of fluid bypass the main valve. Replacement has a 1/8-inch hole. Feller at the radiator shop said that was so that the valve would sense the temperature better. I don't know if I believe that or not - metal conducts heat very well and I doubt it makes that much difference. But then I ain't famous for my automotive nolige. Some engines require the little breather hole to allow a little bit of circulation with the stat closed - basically to allow air out when filling - but also to allow a bit more even warmup. Some engines don't need it. The premium stat I bought for my 4.0 Ranger does not have it. The one I removed (not an OEM) did.

thermostat. Wrong. I busted off both bolts. Now I have to remove = fifty hoses and assemblies just to get in there and drill them out. 15 = minute job turned into a weekend and likely won't solve the problem.

whatever you call it) that lets a small amount of fluid bypass the main = valve. Replacement has a 1/8-inch hole. Feller at the radiator shop = said that was so that the valve would sense the temperature better. I = don't know if I believe that or not - metal conducts heat very well and = I doubt it makes that much difference. But then I ain't famous for my = automotive nolige.

Well, I learned one thing today. This engine has 2 "water temp sensors" =

-- I called them "temp sensors" but evidently that throws some of the = part counter folks these daze.

Standing in front of the car, the one on the left is for the gauge, one = on the right is for the computer. After market versions of the computer = side sensor don't match up with the cable, so be sure and get the = factory sensor - it's $15 (cheaper than after market here). Don't do = like I did and break off the connector trying to get the after market = version to fit. Now I'm stuck getting a new plug and sensor. Plug is = $20+...... Will try to solder the leads first (free).

thermostat. Wrong. I busted off both bolts. Now I have to remove = fifty hoses and assemblies just to get in there and drill them out. 15 = minute job turned into a weekend and likely won't solve the problem.

whatever you call it) that lets a small amount of fluid bypass the main = valve. Replacement has a 1/8-inch hole. Feller at the radiator shop = said that was so that the valve would sense the temperature better. I = don't know if I believe that or not - metal conducts heat very well and = I doubt it makes that much difference. But then I ain't famous for my = automotive nolige.

Well, I learned one thing today. This engine has 2 "water temp sensors" =

-- I called them "temp sensors" but evidently that throws some of the = part counter folks these daze.

Standing in front of the car, the one on the left is for the gauge, one = on the right is for the computer. After market versions of the computer = side sensor don't match up with the cable, so be sure and get the = factory sensor - it's $15 (cheaper than after market here). Don't do = like I did and break off the connector trying to get the after market = version to fit. Now I'm stuck getting a new plug and sensor. Plug is = $20+...... Will try to solder the leads first (free).

=3D=3D=3D

And the epic saga continues -- did I say I broke off both thermostat = housing mounting bolts trying to get them loose? Yep, tried penetration = oil, heating, banging on them etc and they would not budget. I tried = removing them with bolt extractor but it wouldn't budge either. So I = drilled them (they are 10mm) with 1/4-20 tap, replaced the thermostat = and broken temp sensor and am back in fat city again. Supposed to be in = the 90's tomorrow - will be a good test for overheating.

thermostat. Wrong. I busted off both bolts. Now I have to remove = fifty hoses and assemblies just to get in there and drill them out. 15 = minute job turned into a weekend and likely won't solve the problem.

whatever you call it) that lets a small amount of fluid bypass the main = valve. Replacement has a 1/8-inch hole. Feller at the radiator shop = said that was so that the valve would sense the temperature better. I = don't know if I believe that or not - metal conducts heat very well and = I doubt it makes that much difference. But then I ain't famous for my = automotive nolige.

Well, I learned one thing today. This engine has 2 "water temp sensors" =

-- I called them "temp sensors" but evidently that throws some of the = part counter folks these daze.

Standing in front of the car, the one on the left is for the gauge, one = on the right is for the computer. After market versions of the computer = side sensor don't match up with the cable, so be sure and get the = factory sensor - it's $15 (cheaper than after market here). Don't do = like I did and break off the connector trying to get the after market = version to fit. Now I'm stuck getting a new plug and sensor. Plug is = $20+...... Will try to solder the leads first (free).

=3D=3D=3D

OK, update #500... it took me 3 days (interrupted by work and honey-do = stuff) but I finally got the thermostat bolts ground off, retapped, = broke off the taps, tapped another place, broke them off, etc... This = repeated for several days. Finally I slowed down and drilled/tapped two = good holes. Replaced the thermostat (nothing wrong with old one), = replaced the temp sender for the gauge (turned out nothing wrong with = the old one there either), broke the temp sender unit for computer (was = ready to break anyway...).

Still running hot intermittantly. Looks to me like the new fan clutch = is not working properly, so I'm going to drill and tap the old one (I'm = getting good at this now) it so that the blades are fixed and spin all = the time and see how that works.

If that doesn't help, I'm back to where I started. Any other ideas?

thermostat. Wrong. I busted off both bolts. Now I have to remove = fifty hoses and assemblies just to get in there and drill them out. 15 = minute job turned into a weekend and likely won't solve the problem.

whatever you call it) that lets a small amount of fluid bypass the main = valve. Replacement has a 1/8-inch hole. Feller at the radiator shop = said that was so that the valve would sense the temperature better. I = don't know if I believe that or not - metal conducts heat very well and = I doubt it makes that much difference. But then I ain't famous for my = automotive nolige.

Well, I learned one thing today. This engine has 2 "water temp sensors" =

-- I called them "temp sensors" but evidently that throws some of the = part counter folks these daze.

Standing in front of the car, the one on the left is for the gauge, one = on the right is for the computer. After market versions of the computer = side sensor don't match up with the cable, so be sure and get the = factory sensor - it's $15 (cheaper than after market here). Don't do = like I did and break off the connector trying to get the after market = version to fit. Now I'm stuck getting a new plug and sensor. Plug is = $20+...... Will try to solder the leads first (free).

=3D=3D=3D

OK, update #500... it took me 3 days (interrupted by work and honey-do = stuff) but I finally got the thermostat bolts ground off, retapped, = broke off the taps, tapped another place, broke them off, etc... This = repeated for several days. Finally I slowed down and drilled/tapped two = good holes. Replaced the thermostat (nothing wrong with old one), = replaced the temp sender for the gauge (turned out nothing wrong with = the old one there either), broke the temp sender unit for computer (was = ready to break anyway...).

Still running hot intermittantly. Looks to me like the new fan clutch = is not working properly, so I'm going to drill and tap the old one (I'm = getting good at this now) it so that the blades are fixed and spin all = the time and see how that works.

If that doesn't help, I'm back to where I started. Any other ideas?

=3D=3D=3D

Now after running a few days, the temp seems to be stable at around 1/3 = of the scale. Used to stay at mid-range. Old thermostat was stamped =

190 degrees and new one is 192. Will keep monitoring it and hopefully = no "breaking" news....

thermostat. Wrong. I busted off both bolts. Now I have to remove = fifty hoses and assemblies just to get in there and drill them out. 15 = minute job turned into a weekend and likely won't solve the problem.

whatever you call it) that lets a small amount of fluid bypass the main = valve. Replacement has a 1/8-inch hole. Feller at the radiator shop = said that was so that the valve would sense the temperature better. I = don't know if I believe that or not - metal conducts heat very well and = I doubt it makes that much difference. But then I ain't famous for my = automotive nolige.

Well, I learned one thing today. This engine has 2 "water temp sensors" =

-- I called them "temp sensors" but evidently that throws some of the = part counter folks these daze.

Standing in front of the car, the one on the left is for the gauge, one = on the right is for the computer. After market versions of the computer = side sensor don't match up with the cable, so be sure and get the = factory sensor - it's $15 (cheaper than after market here). Don't do = like I did and break off the connector trying to get the after market = version to fit. Now I'm stuck getting a new plug and sensor. Plug is = $20+...... Will try to solder the leads first (free).

=3D=3D=3D

OK, update #500... it took me 3 days (interrupted by work and honey-do = stuff) but I finally got the thermostat bolts ground off, retapped, = broke off the taps, tapped another place, broke them off, etc... This = repeated for several days. Finally I slowed down and drilled/tapped two = good holes. Replaced the thermostat (nothing wrong with old one), = replaced the temp sender for the gauge (turned out nothing wrong with = the old one there either), broke the temp sender unit for computer (was = ready to break anyway...).

Still running hot intermittantly. Looks to me like the new fan clutch = is not working properly, so I'm going to drill and tap the old one (I'm = getting good at this now) it so that the blades are fixed and spin all = the time and see how that works.

If that doesn't help, I'm back to where I started. Any other ideas?

=3D=3D=3D

Now after running a few days, the temp seems to be stable at around 1/3 = of the scale. Used to stay at mid-range. Old thermostat was stamped =

190 degrees and new one is 192. Will keep monitoring it and hopefully = no "breaking" news....

=3D=3D=3D

Last post on this one.... After several weeks, no more temp problems. = Comes up to temp and stays right on. If I idle like at a drive-thru, it = increases a little but never gets over 50-60% of scale.

To recap.... I replaced the fan clutch first, and still overheated. = Then swapped out the thermostat and the outlet temp sensor which had = frayed wires. Don't know if it was the thermostat or the sensor, but = both were low dollar and no more overheating.

After going thru this exercise, the only advice I have is to do the same = thing I did. Only try not to shear off the thermostat bolts like I did =

-- grinding down the bolts and drill/tapping new holes added a couple of = days to an otherwise simple job.