Someone PLEASE help me...I'm running out of ideas!

Car: 1995 Ford Contour Engine: 2.5L Duratec Miles: 102,000
This car is driving me to drink!!!!
You start the car, it revs to 2500, tries to come down to regular
RPMs(below 1000), and then dies. If you play with the gas pedal, you CAN get it to stay idling, but it's VERY shaky and does not sound good at all.
At first, I thought it was an EGR problem because I had one before with similar symptoms. But I tested the valve with a Vacuum Pump and it worked perfectly.
Then, I noticed that the car would not stall and die if I disconnected the IAC's air supply hose that comes off of the main air intake system. Of course it would idle at about 1300, probably beacuse of the New vacuum leak, but it would not die in Park or Drive. I also found that as SOON as I hooked that IAC air supply hose back-up, the engine immediately would stall. And I MEAN immediately!!
So, knowing this, I assumed it was the IAC valve not responding to allow more air into the engine. I went and got a New one, installed it, and it made NO difference at all!! This really got me mad!!
Then I decided to keep starting the car and REALLY listen closely to hear what was going on.
I first noticed that every 20 seconds or so, I could hear this wierd "popping" sound. It was pretty startling. Maybe a really bad lean mis-fire. I then got in close to where the plug wires connect to the coil and I could hear a pretty loud "ticking" sound. With the engine running(barely), I disconnected one of the plug wires from the coil, and to my surprise, it made NO difference at all!! I also noticed that the spark itself was not the light blue color that I am used to with my 3.1L Cutlass Supreme...it was more of an orange color, which may indicate a weaker or less hot spark...which may just be normal for this engine/car??
Anyways, right now I have all the plugs and wires removed because I'm going to replace them all anyways...they pretty much look like the originals!!!(this is my sisters car)
I've measured the resistance of the ignition coil, and I'm getting 1.8 ohms, which is 3 times higher than the specified 0.45-0.55 ohms. I'm not sure how much of a difference this will really make though?
One other thing that I'm weary of is the IAC's supply voltage. Ford states that the VPWR should be 3.5-11.0 volts at 3000 RPMs. Well, when I test it with my Multi-Meter, the voltage is ALWAYS 14.5, or whatever battery voltage is at the time of measurement. I assumed that the voltage would be variable based on what the PCM wants the idle to be at??
Anyone?
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My 98 Contour (2.5L, V6) is having the same problem. On road at high speed, it runs well. Any thing else I can check without too much pain before I go to the dealer?
(The dealer became worse and worse now. Before the check problems with experience and charge little for inspection. Now, EVERY time they charge you $85+tax per item check with computer by those idiots. Last time they quote me $4000 after paid $100 for the computer checking. Actually the problem was other cause, checked by a small garage).
Please help me for the problem and also teach me how to savely remove old spark plugs. Many people told me that the plugs and wire are to me replaced now (100K miles exact).
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The high coil resistance is definitely a concern; suggest checking the other coils and spark on plugs serviced by them. If you get a nice blue spark and see specified range resistance on the other coils, I would definitely replace the coil (and it's a good idea anyway).
On the issue of the IAC, I would be somewhat concerned with the higher than specified voltage, but I believe that, like most outputs, the IAC is ground-side controlled; rather than a varied voltage supply, the IAC receives a steady input voltage and the PCM switches the ground on and off at a varied rate to maintain the appropriate overall IAC valve position. IAC operation is generally expressed in 'counts.' Perhaps use of a breakout box is in order to help determine if a harness problem exists that is having a negative impact on the PCM's control over the IAC. A less likely problem, of course, is a fault with the driver in the PCM.
Mark
On Wed, 14 Jan 2004 16:26:05 -0700, bigbossfan80 wrote:

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Have you checked for vacuum leaks everywhere? Nice to see that you checked the EGR valve, but what about all the vacuum hoses and other devices that use vacuum?
Have you checked for air leaks?
Have you cleaned your MAF sensor?
Have you cleaned your coolant temperature sensor electrical contacts? They are prone to corrode.
I'm also assuming that all your fluids and filters are in good shape.
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You might try spraying the intake with carb cleaner. If it smoothes out change the 'O' rings. Better yet why not take the car to a dealership and have it connected to an engine analyzer to discover the cause, rather than simply going at it hit and miss?
mike hunt
bigbossfan80 wrote:

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