Tan/lt grn wire/Fuel Pump Relay

I think I have figured out a way to test socket of the tan/lt green wire. I need to make some external connectors from that socket, since I can't find a correct replacement socket. I have already cut the wires hoping to find a replacement, but I couldn't. So, can I put slip on connectors on those wires and put them on the relay, taping the crap out of them so they don't arc? Starting with the yellow wire first so that it is properly insulated since it is always hot. Do you see a problem with this thinking?

Thanks and take care, Sharon

I either missed it or you did not mention you had the pump replaced......at any event lets move forward.

This could be a coincidence, of just a bad battery, but again, moot issue.

Lets assume we are at square one with no prior posts. Does the fuel pump run with just the jumper wire installed and WITH OUT the extra ground you installed? Also, when you "force" the pump to run, will the engine run?

This is where you do not understand. That is a ground, and the ground is made by a transistor in the engine computer. If the ground is made you will not see voltage on most meters. Some you might see 1 volt. Now if the ground is not made you should see source voltage ( 12 volts ) if you do not then you have only two possibilities. 1) the relay terminals are not making contact in the relay socket. 2 ) the relay coil is open.

Now it has been explained to you as to how to test the tan wire. I'll go through it again. If you do not understand please say so.

The tan wire will be called a circuit, because that is what we are testing. Make sure your batteries are installed correctly. Set your meter for ohms. Question, is you meter an auto-ranging meter?

A) Key off. B) Remove the relay. C) At the relay socket, find the terminal for the tan wire. Probe the terminal with a test lead. D) put the other test lead to a good ground.

You should see infinity. ( very high resistance )

E) Have some one turn the key to start and keep it there long enough for you to get a reading.

You should see about 5 ohms or less.

You need to have a little more understanding of DC electronics. And what is happeing.

The tan wire is a just ground wire. Look at the schematic you posted. You will see it goes the eec self test connector and engine computer. Look at the eec self test connector, it's just an open connector nothing more. The wire stops there. The only time it is used there is when some kind of test equipment is installed and that equipment needs to run the fuel pump. It makes ground energizing the coil in the relay. That is what the engine computer does. It just makes ground nothing more. The engine computer makes that ground only when required. It makes that ground only when it sees a crank signal and briefly when you turn the key to run. That has been explained at least once by me and at least once by some one else. That is how the ignition module became part of the discussion.

I took the connectors out of the plastic socket. I spliced in two new shrink wrapped connectors for the larger wires (orange and yellow) and used the original connectors for the smaller lines because their nipples were too small to adapt to a 'normal' connector. On these, I tightened the slot and taped, taped, taped each with electrical tape to avoid any arcing. I also put a new connector on the self test module just to make sure that the tan/lt grn wire had a good connection there. I turned the key to on, and did not hear the pump. I turned the key to start, no pump.

I believe I need to keep following that wire down the line. Since I have 12 volts coming in on the orange wire, and twelve volts coming in on the red wire, the only thing that I can think of is that the tan lt/grn wire (grounding) is not allow the circuit to complete and allowing the electro-magnet inside the relay to work properly. Keep in mind these things: I tested the relay, using the car battery (read this NG for details), and it works correctly. I have now rewired the relay connecting wires with new or tightened connectors, ruling out a bad connection in that area. If I am wrong on any of the procedure I have completed here, please let me know.

I am ready for the next step of checking this wire and circuit. Let me reiterate, Thomas, what you said yesterday, and ask a couple of questions: Set your meter for ohms. You asked is your meter an auto-ranging meter? My reply and question: I am not understanding what an auto-ranging meter is. I can tell you that there are only two setting for the ohms on the selector. One is RX10, one is RX1K. And the needle scale for ohms goes from 500 to 0. A) Key off. B) Remove the relay. C) At the relay socket, find the terminal for the tan wire. Probe the terminal with a test lead. My question. By this, do you mean attach the + side of the multimeter to the tan/lt grn wire? (keep in mind that I can now check the wire directly, since there is no more socket). D) put the other test lead to a good ground.

You should see infinity. ( very high resistance ) My question: Is this without inserting the key in the ignition?

E) Have some one turn the key to start and keep it there long enough for you to get a reading. You should see about 5 ohms or less.

Thanks for helping me through the next step, by answering the questions and giving me a little clarification. Take Care, Sharon

An auto ranging meter has only one OHM setting. Set your to the lowest level. That would be RX10. It really does not matter what lead to attach to what part. But I'll say put the positive on the tan wire.

I get a reading of 7 on the Ohm scale at the top of the meter.

I get a reading of 10 on the Ohm scale.

Just to let you know that I am looking at the right markings, Ohm scale on my meter is at the very top, like this one:

Thanks Stan, but it is a little different. Just so that Thomas can see what scale I have on mine and what setting I used, I loaded a pic on the web here:

This is an automotive multimeter. Here is another pic of the actual meter I am using, not the one that Stan published. I have no difficulty reading this scale. And I tried it several times to make sure that it was constantly registering the same reading. The green upper scale with the ohm symbol is what I am reading, and as I said before it is set on RX10:

Take Care, Sharon

Thanks Thomas. I am using this meter (not the one Stan published):

Take Care, Sharon

I did calibrate it, according to the instructions you just gave me. I set it to RX10, touched the leads, moved the calibrating knob until it just touched the 0 mark. Then I did the test, without touching that knob again.

Take Care, Sharon

Just did it from scratch again, and it is pretty close to the same reading. Started with calibration. No key - right around the 3 mark, key in on positions, it dips down a little, key in the start position, it goes up to right around 5, then when turned off it is right around 3 again.

Take Care, Sharon

Here is a clear picture of the meter. I will let Thomas tell you how to use it.

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Sorry Thomas, I had another situation to attend to. I checked the volts on the red wire in the start position. On my scale, it reads a little over 12+ volts coming through when I put it on the 10 setting. That would be reasonable. Then I connect the red wire to the relay, put the positive lead on the tan wire and put ignition on start. I show a little over 12+ volts all the time I am cranking. I hope that helps you to see what it is doing.

Thanks sooooooo much for trying. Take Care, Sharon

I really don't like you using an analog meter, but........ it's what you have so......... First as I said set it to the lowest setting, that would be the one on the bottom X1, which means times 1. The next setting is X10, that is times ten. The next setting is X1K The K is 1000, so it would be times 1000. 1k is 1000, 10K is

Now you know what the settings are and how to interpret the readings. Before you can use this meter to read OHMS you must calibrate it. Set the knob to what ever range you are using. Take the test leads and touch them together. Use the red wheel and 0 the needle. You are now ready to use the meter. Be very careful to not touch the red wheel, as that you will go out of calibration. So set the meter to the X1K range. I'm not sure if the meter has the range to work or not.

Before we go there, does the car run when you jumper the yellow wire to the orange wire?

Yes I know it is called an automotive multimeter. It is not the meter you use for testing the electronics in a computer. It's fine for checking voltages in non-sensitive things like wires, but not for electronics. It does not have the range or accuracy. Example, If I wanted you to check the voltage drop on the alternator ground circuit, I would want you to look for .10 volts. You can not do that with this meter. I would much rather have you use a test lamp to see if the ground is being made or not. In fact it would be better because it is a go-nogo test. Light on it works. No light no work. And again, not just any test lamp, but one designed for use on electronic equipment.