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- 1998 F150 rpm/idle problem
May 15, 2012, 10:06 pm
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I am having the rpms hang up longer than normal while driving, shifting,
clutch in coming to a stop etc. Sometimes the rpm increases on it's own
causing the truck to surge.
I know that when I put in the clutch without using the gas pedal the rpm is
supposed to drop, not increase like it does now.
Coming to a stop for instance, I will have one foot on the clutch and the
other on the brake yet my rpm will either hang up between 1500 to 2000 or
climb there, other times it stays relatively normal.
Now for the fun part, this does not seem to happen when I have turned the
heat/air control to the off position.
The Idle Air Controller has been replaced because the mechanics swore this
had to be the problem but has not had any effect.
Any ideas will help. I'm not a mechanic but this seems to have stumped the
mechanics I've asked.
Re: 1998 F150 rpm/idle problem
A vacuum leak can certainly cause the issues you report. Additionally, a
fluctuating signal from an O2 Sensor can also cause the problems you have. A
MAF sensor (mass air flow) can also contribute to the problems you have.
If there is air entering into the intake that the MAF does not know about,
then the extra air can speed the idle. If the O2 is reporting a condition
that is false, the corrective measures taken by the computer will be wrong,
and this can speed the idle. And, the MAF reports the desnity and temp of
the intake air and the computer uses the information to regulate how much
fuel to deliver. If the MAF is making reports of air quality that vary from
one moment to the next, then the idle speed will be affected.
You need a better mechanic, or the same mechanic with better diagnostic
equipment. It sounds like he is making guesses that cost you more money than
they cost him.
Re: 1998 F150 rpm/idle problem
symptoms you report.
The check engine light is REQUIRED to come on when the key is in the Engine
Run position -- the last key position before Engine Start, which is also the
key position the key returns to after the engine has been started -- for the
purpose of a self test. If the light is not coming on with the key in the
RUN position, then the light has failed for one reason or another, and you
should merely check the stored codes for insight to the problem you have
reported. Once you get that problems sorted out, then investigate why the
light is not coming on. If the light does come on, and remains on while the
engine is running, then just pull codes. The MAF and the O2 Sensor should
certainly throw a code if they are the root of the problem you have, the
vacuum leak might not -- although the lean condition caused by the MAF
should be visible to the O2 Sensors but it is possible that the lean will be
small enough to confuse the idle speed and remain within the limits of the
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