93 Bonneville no spark

Hi all,
I'm really stuck on this one. Hopefully someone could help me out.
My 93 Bonneville just died and it would crank but would not start.
Initial troubleshooting
- No injector pulse when turning on the ignition - no spark when cranking. Replaced crank sensor - brand new AC Delco - still no injector pulse and spark. Replaced ignition control module - taken from a local wrecker (Donor 92 Buick Regal) - no spark on sparkplugs when cranking - Injector would pulse when turning on ignition Replaced PCM (computer) - purchased rebuilt from local shop - no spark on sparkplugs when cranking - Injector would pulse when turning on ignition
Any other ideas? Kinda stuck on this one, I don't think that there is any more parts to replace.
Thanks,
Jim
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You need to trace the wires fro the circuit and check them out. Make sure signal is getting from point A to point B. Make sure you have a good connection.
I had a customer with a similar problem. Took his car else where, to the tune of $1000 worth of parts changing. I found the problem in 3 hours of testing. A bad wire connection at the DIS connector. I temp fixed it, and told the customer to drive it for 2 days. The amount of time I was told it would take to get the connector in at the dealership's parts department I went to.
The customer is still driving on that temp fix, leaving me out for the new connector I bought. Charles
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Dont'cha just love it???
I'm sitting on a new fuel tank for a 66 Dodge Coronet 500 to the tune of $250 that some a-hole insisted I get for him 2 months ago...
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Neil Nelson wrote in alt.autos.gm

A lot of places require that special ordered parts be paid for before they are ordered, or at least a substantial deposit be placed. Even J.C. Penney's does it.
--
Dick #1349
"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary
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wrote:

the
Yea, I do. On items over $50 I make the customer give me the money first when I do not have their vehicle. Depending on my finical situation, I make them give me the money first even when I have their vehicle.
That gas tank you could sell pretty easy at either a Swap meet, or on E-Bay and get most if not all of your money back. Charles
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jim said

Is the crank sensor a HALL sensor? If so, it requires power from the vehicle battery to create it's 'crank position' signal. Perhaps this wire is broken and the sensor is not getting power. Is is two wire or three wire sensor?
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Jim, has that Bonnie got VATS or Passlock? I'm not well-versed enough to know when the change occured between VATS, Passlock I, and Passlock II, but my 1990 'vette has VATS, and a 1997 Sunfire I just worked on had Passlock I. FYI, VATS has a little "pill" in the key (my 'vette's is black plastic surrounding a little slice of metal in the shank of the ignition key); Passlock has a resistance built into the ignition switch (so does Passlock II).
The point being it could be the vehicle's anti-theft circuit. On my 'vette (back when my dad owned it) I remember it not starting at all. One Passlock I (and II I believe) it will start momentarily and then die); if you have VATS, you might just need to bypass the VATS system (or Passlock). Check www.bulldogsecurtity.com and http://www.e-z.net/~iei/vatts.htm (the latter an excellent resource) for how to bypass the particular systems. IMPORTANT: don't do what I did; install the resistance on a Passlock I system (probably similar on VATS and II) by just hard-wiring the resistance; no joy. Instead, install using a relay to put the resistance across the system as indicated in the second link (http://www.e-z.net/~iei/vatts.htm ) above.
HTH
--HC

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Pass Key II, and Pass Key III are both considered VATS. VATS is the acronym for Vehicle Anti Theft System. Once the engine is started and in run, VATS will not be able to shut it down.
--

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