'98 Intrigue front stabilizer bar broken

I just discovered the front stabilizer bar broken on my '98 Olds Intrigue. It must be a common problem because my friend's Buick Century did the same thing -- the ends of the bar are flat instead of round from
end to end like the older cars, and they break off on the end, seems like kind of a design flaw to me. Shop wants about $300 to replace it with a new bar, which includes about an hour and a half labor. I thought I'd just deal with it myself but had a few questions.
1.) Is this a pretty straightforward fix, or does the engine cradle need to be lowered or something of that nature?
2,) If I get a used one from the junkyard for about $40, is it likely to do the same thing down the road?
3.) Since this is my everyday, runaroud car, kind of a beater, I thought about how the easiest thing to try first (not much to lose by trying it) would be to just try and weld the broken part back together -- with any luck it would hold for quite awhile, otherwise I'm back where I started and not really out any money or time.
4.) A friend has a junk Malibu the same year, which I was thinking of buying for a parts car, is there any database online for people to find out if certain parts off one car will fit another (like the junkyards have in those books)? TIA
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Dont know particularly about this car, but usually they can be replaced without a lot of trouble.

You never know. Two schools of thought: (1) if the run of bars was faulty, the junker may well break, OR (2) if it survived long enough to become a junker, it may be a statistically good one.

I would not recommend this. Welded metal can have weakened or embrittled zones caused by the welding process. If you were an ace welder and knew about normalizing the welded metal, then I would feel more positive. I wouldnt do it myself.

Not that I know of.. You can sometimes go to www.car-part.com and do a search for the part, and see what pops up. Sometimes you will get a number of cars of different models that show as interchangeable parts.
There are sometimes aftermarket bars available that may be stronger (maybe much stronger in your case). If I were going to have to pay $300 for an OEM unit, I might look at this option (to avoid the crappo OEM quality or design).
Just my 2 centavos
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

By the way, I pulled up the www.car-part.com site and searched for this front stabilizer bar. Apparently some Grand Prix fit, some Buick Centujries and Regals as well, but no indication of Malibu.
Prices at the junkyards seem to run in the $30-100 range.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
hls wrote, "By the way, I pulled up the www.car-part.com site and searched for this front stabilizer bar. Apparently some Grand Prix fit, some Buick Centujries and Regals as well, but no indication of Malibu. Prices at the junkyards seem to run in the $30-100 range."
************************
I looked on that site as well, lot of good info there (thank you for that) also valuable because the prices vary quite a bit on that stuff, some places want almost 3 tiimes as much as another place for the same thing.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
news:17955-4C88E65F-

and become known by the people there.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Not a real big deal to change that, had to drop the cradle a bit and disconnect the steering intermediate shaft from the stub shaft. I can sure see why those stabilizer bars break after looking at it out of the car -- it isn't very thick on the ends and it looks like the first time you hit a hard bump going through a curve it would break (it wasn't rusted or anything). And as such, welding it would be a joke. They do recommend using new cradle bolts after the original ones have been disturbed, but I just used the original ones with some locktite on them and torqued to specs.. I was surprised to see they recommended getting new bolts since the only time I'm used to seeing them call for that that is on torque-to-yield bolts (headbolts, etc.) and these are going through rubber bodymounts, so I wouldn't think they'd be TTY. Just covering their ass? I would think it'd be okay with the original bolts but it would be catastrophic if they failed!
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
news:17955-4C8AD4A8-

Probably not a catastrophe, but you would notice it strongly. I think it will be okay with the original bolts Did you replace the bushings, and if so with what?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
hls: "Probably not a catastrophe, but you would notice it strongly. I think it will be okay with the original bolts Did you replace the bushings, and if so with what? " ***************************************
No, I didn't replace the bushings, just put the junkyard bar on and silicone sprayed any rubber bushings where possible as I put it all back together --actually I haven't driven it yet, as I was too dirty to get in it when I got done :-)
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.