GM head lights

On my girlfriend's 2002 Buick Century, you can turn off the head lamps after they have come on automatically, by manually turning on the head lamp switch, then turning it right back off.

On my 2001 Z28 Camaro, you cannot turn the head lamps off if the car thinks it's dark enough outside. You can of course turn on the lights manually even if it is bright out, but that's not what you are asking for.

On my 1985 Dodge Ram pickup, the lights turn on and off via the manual switch only. This is the way I like best.

Reply to
SgtSilicon
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Exactly. The BCM thinks that the headlamps have "failed." On those vehicles, the only real solutions are to reprogram the BCM (not really an option without access to specialized equipment AND specialized documentation) or to replace out the sensor part of the circuit with a fixed value device. The latter solution of I have detailed in a recent posting here.

Reply to
SgtSilicon

The Camaro is easily overriden:

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My 01 TA now has manual headlights and no DRL's when I want. (I put a switch in the ashtray)

Ray

Reply to
Ray

Won't the chime also sound to warn you that the parking brake is engaged?

Reply to
Mike Levy

Huh? What? Speak up I can't hear you! ;-) Seriously, I can only attest to my only vehicle with DRL, a 2000 3500 cargo van. In that, there is no chime to warn about the parking brake, only a dash display light.

Reply to
Tony Miklos

"Tim Dolan" wrote: > LeBuick, > Please provide more details. Would you describe a wire > that I > can tap into? > Thanks, > Tim fm Ct>

Looks like you just remove the 3 screw panel directly under the steering column. Looking up to the right of the steering column and to the left of the heater. By the diagram it looks like there is a wiring harness that "Y?s" to the left (toward the steering column) and right (toward heater). The part going to the right (toward heater) goes into the RKE receiver and the DRL module is mouted on top of that.

Sorry, I?ve never actually seen it but am describing it by pictures from the manual. I figure if you pull the module you can see if ti does what you want. If not just put it back and rig your emergency brake switch...

Reply to
LeBuick

same here, stopping on a straight level dry road and hit a little crack and one wheel bounces a tiny bit and the ABS kicks in and the whole truck jumps forward as if it didn't have any brakes. I can't believe this James guy thinks disabeling ABS is a bad idea, he must be one of those that thinks ABS helps people stop! (you would be surprised at how many people think that and don't understand how ABS works and what it is intended for)

Reply to
Eugene

Not that I am recommending it.... But "normally" if there isn't feedback from one of the ABS sensors the ABS portion of your braking system shuts off & reverts to traditional braking. Your ABS light will come on if it isn't working, "say, if a sensor was unplugged." again, not that I'm recommending it.

Reply to
Full_Name

Just what is ABS intended for anyway? I tried (in a large empty parking lot in the rain) locking up the brakes while turning. I would think the

*wonderful invention* called ABS would allow my front wheels to rotate enough to make the vehicle turn instead of skidding straight. No, it didn't turn. The ABS pulsed away like mad and I still skidded straight forward.
Reply to
Tony Miklos

My S10 wasn't available without ABS, are the full size trucks available without it?

Reply to
Eugene

Ahh, heres the mtyh. ABS wasn't designed to help stop quicker and the laws of physics don't allow it to help people stop quicker. ABS simply releases the pressure on the lines when a wheel locks up, this is to allow controlled steering because a locked up wheel will slide in the direction it was going, it has to be rotating to turn directions. This releasing of the brake is what extends the stopping distance. True threashold braking is the fastest way to stop but you have to have a feel for it, too much pressure you lock the wheels and too little pressure you don't stop as effectively ABS pulses the brakes so it bounces above and below the threashold line a few times a second but since its slightly above or below the threashold line most of the time it doesn't give the best/shortest stopping distance. If you have ever studied and electronic/mechanical engineering you would understand how a control system like this works but plotting on a graph the change in brake pressure you get a damped sine wave

Reply to
Eugene

My guess is that that is also the preference of a fairly large number of people. Not sure why GM has yet to get it.

Reply to
James C. Reeves

Why did you buy a vehicle with ABS if they don't work for you? Many vehicles and be purchased without ABS still. In fact, more models now than several years ago. It seems you're not alone on not wanting ABS.

Reply to
James C. Reeves

Wow!! Thanks for the link. That is great information! At least for F-body owners like me.

Thanks!

Reply to
SgtSilicon

On my newest vehicles ABS is standard equipment. It should have a disable switch, like traction control, in my opinion. I understand ABS will be a delete option on the 2005 Mustang GT. Some luxury sport cars do have a switch to disable the ABS. You can install one as well, I suppose, to interrupt the system.

mike hunt

"James C. Reeves" wrote:

Reply to
MelvinGibson

ABS help people stop quicker (or in shorter distance). There are exceptions to this. Like gravel as stated. Over all though, ABS will yield superior results with average drivers. Drivers who keep their cool under extreme stress and are adept at avoiding lock-up, are better served by non ABS brakes.

Only you know if you are Mr. Mario or not, but don't over estimate your abilities.

Reply to
SgtSilicon

First of all, I figured with the new technology, ABS would improve. I found out that it hadn't. Second, the work van was a left over (a 2000 bought in march of 2001) and I got it for about $4500 under the sticker price. Then using my GM card credit I built up, they deducted another $2300. Oh, and also they gave me parts bins and a divider between the cargo area and the driver that retails for well over $1000, but if you prove to them you own a business, you get it for free! So with the final price being about $7800 under the sticker price (around $25000 I think?), I thought I'd give them a chance again.

Now I may try disconnecting both of the sensors and see what happens. It just may be worth the money anyway!

Reply to
Tony Miklos

I certainly understand. What makes it worse yet is that in my test skids in a wet parking lot, the abs didn't even help me turn! I still skidded straight! (same in snow also BTW) I didn't do any test skids on a dry surface.

Reminds me of being 18 and running from the cops. I was on a stone road and around a corner they just added a lot of new stone that was very loose. I knew the road and wasn't expecting the new loose stone. I locked up the brakes, skidding straight for a tree... with a dog tied to it... skidding closer and closer. At the last second I let off the brakes just in time to make the turn.

ABS is an attempt to help people drive... without having the slightest knowledge in basic 5th grade science.

Reply to
Tony Miklos

Hi...

None of my business - but given that you're in the USA (I think) where everyone sues everyone for so much as blinking out of sequence - aren't you putting yourself at a terrible risk?

I'm suspecting that if you should ever be evenly remotely involved in a serious accident, and it's discovered that you've "modified" your brakes... ?? :(

Ken

Reply to
Ken Weitzel

You may be correct. (without a doubt correct about the law suits) I sure hope there will never be a "bad plug connection" that I wasn't aware of that could keep the ABS from working.

Reply to
Tony Miklos

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