Some vehicles there is a step 0.5 remove engine and step 5 replace engine. My 4x4 S10 I can drop the front axle and get the pan off but my 2wd s10 there is a cross member less than an inch below the engine so there's no way that pan will come out (and its a bit wet where the pan meets the timing cover, I'm thinking of pulling the timing cover and trying to replace the seal there.)
Any change your own oil next time ;)
my mechanic changed the oil and now i have a leak. i accept that sometimes things just happen, but the fix he gave for this "happen" is huge! i need to have the engine lifted and the oil pan changed.
anybody got some suggestions on what i can try? thanks...thehick
That's about all that you can do, to braze the cracks you would have to remove the pan anyway. I would rather put a new one on than a welded pan. That is if I were keeping the car.
Brian
Why is changing a "pan" such a big deal? Please don't flame me it's a real question. I would think you simply:
Am I missing something?
Not a big deal for most cars, some require that the motor be lifted high enough to get the pan off. Not a big deal if you have a car lift and a screw jack to raise the motor. But most of us don't, we have to lay on the floor with the car on jacks and use a floor jack or engine hoist to get the motor high enough.
Brian
Thanks for the reply Brian. Basically the problem is there is not enough clearence to remove/replace the pan without jacking up the motor in some vehicles. Understood now.
Sounds like a job for JBweld Epoxy. Now of course most are thinking "You cheap SOB...get the damn oil pan and fix it right".. Sure that is what I would do if money grew in the back yard! I swear by JB weld to seal non pressurized cracks, and here is why. Being a poor college student, I had my tranny go out on my Cutlass. I scraped the money together to replace it and did the job myself with some classmates. (was in Community college learning Auto tech) lo and behold, while having someone else help me, one of the guys put the wrong size bolt in the tranny pan after changing the filter, and it stripped. Well we thought (duh) that all the other bolts would hold in the tranny fluid and all would be good....WRONG. (being poor makes folks look at things in a whole different light.)
ENTER JB weld. After loosing all the fluid in about 2 days, we pulled the pan, cleaned all the fluid away. Filled the whole with JB weld (I know I know should have used a heli-coil...but again...poor, first semester of school and hadn't learned much yet) and drilled and tapped it. Put that sucker together and NO LEAK...had the car for the next two years with no problems.
SO I would clean it and stick some JB weld on there and see if that works.
God after reading that I can't believe I did stuff like that to get by back then.....stuff that I can afford to do different today.
BUT, I would go with the new pan if at all possible.
Eightupman
I'd tell the mech to fix it, he overtorqued the plug....
Otherwise get one of those easy drain oil plugs, the kind I guess you screw open to allow the oil to flow, and THEN put JB weld around it...
great. two good ideas. maybe i can combine them and get this fix to work. ...thehick
If this crack developed as a result of the plug being tightened, then it's a working crack. Every time you put the plug back in you will be opening the crack. That's too much even for JB Weld. And you will have trouble cleaning in that crack to apply JB. Obviously you won't be putting it in the sealing area for the plug so that part of the crack stays open. I'm still for trying something if your money and the car preclude a new pan. Rough up the area first and clean with brake fluid with no oil in the pan. See if you can patch it. Then I would look for an aftermarket plug that uses the rubber expansion bulb method. Some here have said they work. That type of plug will seal withoug putting much pressure on the crack to open up. In fact, with that plug and no patch it might not leak because the crack will try to close up without the metal drain plug in it and these after market plugs I'm talking about pull in from behind somewhat and might cover the crack area.
ok. i'll check for a supplier of these funny plugs here in toronto. any hints? anybody? ...thehick
Hell yeah, among other things. The only thing I cannot do on my own car as of yet, is diagnose the computer stuff. I graduated out of college in 1991, and the "brains" were a simple command control module for emissions. I just have not been able to save enough money to get a really good scanner.
Oh, and I don't do body work either...I leave that to the professionals!!!
Some vehicles require some pretty hefty brackets to be removed underneath as well. I think the old Ford Tempos has a motor mount that bolts right to the pan itself......but I can't remember for sure.
I just Googled and found lost of options that could work. I cant be positive from the description but the ones offered at HwHarvey Westbury look like they would be worth a try. They cost $3 or $5 shipped air.
PS.I saw another type at egenterprises.com that operate like a molly. They seal from the outside by pulling a bar from the inside. That could work too.
I'm confused....what exactly do you see? I see a bored individual rudely butchering a post. So any comment made by me, the original poster of that message, was aimed directly at that person. I once thought it was acceptable to post assistance to those who may need it. I did not realize that the internet and newsgroup police get to edit posts with (severe) vulgarity to make them "funny". I only post when I feel it necessary to put in my two cents Now, I have seen many of your posts and you are quite a knowledgeable soul. We haved slammed folks together in the same string, and even agreed on many topics. so what gives?
Would it be at all possible to get back to the intended purpose of the newsgroup and extinguish this nonsence?
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