Can anyone tell me where I can find a valve cover for a 94 Grand Am, 3.1
l (front, the one with the oil opening)? Mine got cracked and although I
sealed the crack, there's some oil seepage, as the bottom edge of the
cover is no longer straight and cannot press the gasket against the
intake with equal strength.
Parts stores don't stock valve covers, and my local dealer didn't have
it in stock, either. I checked some online places, including eBay, but
couldn't find one.
I'm not quite sure what you are saying. I said what I wanted to say up
front: I asked if anyone could recommend an online auto-parts seller
where I could get a valve cover for a car I own. If you don't know of
any such site, and if you don't want to read the BS, you can simply
ignore the thread. But you find it entertaining, as you already
admitted, so I don't know what you are complaining about ;)
Maybe you should start taking your car to a shop and letting someone who
knows what they're doing work on it. Between the valve cover and the
caliper you seem to be doing more damage to the car than age or wear.
And maybe I'm just fixing the damage that those supposed to know what
they are doing have done? Those that know what they are doing suggested
today that they replace the steering knuckle, to fix a stripped thread.
That's around $400 for parts and labor. I prefer to spend my $400 on
I noticed the crack in the valve cover while replacing the intake
manifold gasket on that car a few months ago. Back then those that know
what they are doing offered to do that repair for me. For the modest sum
of around $700. I opted to spend $44.99 for a set of gaskets and doing
it myself. Successfully, it seems.
I've been asking qualified questions here so far, and I have received
competent answers. So I keep coming back, whenever I have a problem.
If you don't have a competent answer to offer in this case, maybe you
should go get ready to watch the World Series? ;)
So first you strip the thread, then use an oversize self-tapper instead of a
heli-coil and even go so far as to bottom it out. At this point a heli-coil
may not even be an option. If you want it right, replace the spindle. That
$400 you want to save may be no savings at all if the brakes fail.
Instead of doing it right months ago you just slapped gaskets on it. Not so
succesfully it seems since it's leaking. Try a body shop. They could weld
the crack and hammer-and-dolley it back to shape. For a price of course.
Or JB Weld the crack, straighten the edge as best you can, then JB Weld the
gasket surface. Once it's hardened up you can file it down to a flat
sealing surface for the gasket.
The "self-tapper", as you call it, was recommended by those that I asked
to sell me HeliCoils -- NAPA. It's a bolt designed and sold for what I
used it. Why do you say a HeliCoil might no longer be an option? And how
will the brakes fail, with that bolt in place? If you can get me scared
enough, I'll bring the car over to Shawnee and pay you the $400 to
replace the caliper mounting bracket. That is, if I can get it to go
that far from Chicago, with all the damage I've done to it ;)
I was referring to the intake gasket replacement as successful. That one
is no longer leaking.
I prefer not to pay that price -- the valve cover is not made of
anything that's weldable and hammerable.
This might work. Still, I think I should be able to find a usable cover
for about the price of a couple of tubes of JB Weld.
Is your valve cover the black plastic one, or is it the aluminum
one? If it's the plastic valve cover, your replacement will
end up being an aluminum one...they don't make the plastic
ones anymore...in fact, there was a bulletin about upgrading
to the aluminum valve cover years ago. Because of cracking.
If you have the aluminum v/c, they can be welded. You should
see the repairs that can be done to aluminum wheels that have
had big chunks ripped out of them...
To wrap up this thread, I should say that the other day I drove to a
local junk yard, where they were able to pull a perfectly good aluminum
VC for me, which I bought ($20) and installed.
Still, I find it odd that there's no online discount retailer for a
certain class of after-market replacement parts. So the consumer is left
with either paying the high dealer price for an "authentic GM" part, or
with getting an aged authentic one from a junk yard.
It seems it will take a while longer before online auto-part sales
follow the model of computer-hardware sales.
Svilen Stoicheff wrote:
I think you made the right choice. For parts like this, why pay some
outrageous price for a new part? I love the wrecking yard, I can
go there and grab an electronic part for my car that I would pay
180 dollars for, and at the wrecker it might cost me 5 dollars.
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