95 lx chk eng light need help

I am getting a chk eng light with a trouble code 12 and I replaced the egr valve and the pcv valve along with new gas cap I am still getting the light and same trouble code after resetting the
ecu
Any advice?
1995 Honda Accord
Thanx
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On Wed, 04 Apr 2007 01:25:35 +0000, lance4132 wrote:

What's a 12? From the parts you replaced (hope you didn't throw a LOT of money at it...EGRs are expensive!) I would look at my vaccuum lines before anything else...they're cheap.
And, get a Chilton's or a Haynes!!! EGRs are REAL easy to test, and you could have saved $$$$.
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Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/ wrote:

that's about the worst possible advice you can give. both are garbage publications full of errors. the only manual worth buying for a honda is the factory workshop manual from helm.com [or the dealer].
and if you don't know what a 12 is or how to fix it, why are you even responding???
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lance4132 wrote:

check the control equipment - there's a couple of solenoids and some vacuum tube that lifts the plunger in the egr valve. if that's disconnected or broken, you'll get the code. also, check the electrical connections between the egr valve/controls and ecu.
if it's not that, you'll have to investigate the ports for blockages. i'm not sure if your series motor has the necessary sensors, but on later vehicles, the ecu figures out when the egr system is not flowing properly. if that's the case, you'll need to check out the port cleaning procedure in this group archive, or i think on tegger.com.
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I have a '92 Accord, and had a similar experience with the check engine light a few years ago during a vacation. Not knowing the cause, I took my car to an out-of-town garage who were honest in stating that a code 12 had been tripped, but very dishonest in suggesting that the problem was (get this....) the ECU unit! Now that's a very expensive part. I said "thanks...I'll think about it", and went to yet another gararge down the street. Just to second the other response you got here re: the egr valve, in my case it was the egr solenoid which needed replacement...that was it. Real simple, and real cheap. This is not the valve itself mind you (which periodically needs to be cleaned due to carbon build-up), but a small round plastic part (green and white) located in the egr control box near the firewall. - Paul.
On Tue, 03 Apr 2007 22:07:33 -0700, jim beam

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Paul S wrote:

-------------------------------
Every Honda owner needs to read this part of Tegger's FAQ:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq_ii.html#changeecu
'Curly'
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I'm working on the same problem with my '94 Accord.I traced it down to the EGR control solenoid valve.The solenoid will work when jumped electrically,but not supplying vaccum to the EGR valve.The ports are very small and i don't suspect it would take much to plug them.I'll let you know how i make out with mine.I may take the solenoid apart first to check for restrictions (gotta bend back the factory crimps) if not,i'll just swap it out with another.
BTW,You can download several service manuals from http://www.hondahookup.com/manuals /
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Zippo wrote:

you don't need to do that. just use a piece of rubber hose on the diaphragm, suck back to open the valve, then pinch off the hose. it'll stay open if it's working properly, /and/ it'll allow you to get a scraper in there to clean out the orifice. that's all you need to do - no disassembly required.

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I was talking about the control valve solenoid,(that supplies vaccum to the egr) not the EGR valve.
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Zippo wrote:

One more thing to check for:
The ECU will also throw the EGR code if the EGR valve doesn't respond fast enough, even though the system may otherwise be fine. After testing just about every possible aspect of the circuit, I wound up drilling out the solenoid metering orifices (located in the hose attachment risers) a few thousandths. Problem fixed!
-Greg
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Had the identical problem with mine.Drilled out the bottom orifice on the solenoid (plugged solid) and is now working perfect.
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address
Also named "bray" and "jessica";exact same complaint.
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Jim Yanik
jyanik
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lance4132 wrote:

We changed from the stock fuel cap over to a locking one, because of thefts of gas in our neighborhood, that is a very safe one, but, the gas prices can drive the animals to stupid acts. We have video surveillance cams all over our home...
Anyway, the warning lights came on that the O2 or EGR was bad.
Seems that the Oxygen sense system also measures vacuum or pressure in the fuel vapor re-circulatory system. Just changing the fuel cap (and, it might be vented instad of sealed/non-vented) caused warning indications.
I now really believe in checking the cap, the vacuum lines, before I start into the expensive parts!
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