On Wed, 04 Apr 2007 01:25:35 +0000, lance4132 wrote:
What's a 12? From the parts you replaced (hope you didn't throw a LOT of
money at it...EGRs are expensive!) I would look at my vaccuum lines before
anything else...they're cheap.
And, get a Chilton's or a Haynes!!! EGRs are REAL easy to test, and you
could have saved $$$$.
that's about the worst possible advice you can give. both are garbage
publications full of errors. the only manual worth buying for a honda
is the factory workshop manual from helm.com [or the dealer].
and if you don't know what a 12 is or how to fix it, why are you even
check the control equipment - there's a couple of solenoids and some
vacuum tube that lifts the plunger in the egr valve. if that's
disconnected or broken, you'll get the code. also, check the electrical
connections between the egr valve/controls and ecu.
if it's not that, you'll have to investigate the ports for blockages.
i'm not sure if your series motor has the necessary sensors, but on
later vehicles, the ecu figures out when the egr system is not flowing
properly. if that's the case, you'll need to check out the port
cleaning procedure in this group archive, or i think on tegger.com.
I have a '92 Accord, and had a similar experience with the check
engine light a few years ago during a vacation. Not knowing the cause,
I took my car to an out-of-town garage who were honest in stating that
a code 12 had been tripped, but very dishonest in suggesting that the
problem was (get this....) the ECU unit! Now that's a very expensive
part. I said "thanks...I'll think about it", and went to yet another
gararge down the street. Just to second the other response you got
here re: the egr valve, in my case it was the egr solenoid which
needed replacement...that was it. Real simple, and real cheap. This is
not the valve itself mind you (which periodically needs to be cleaned
due to carbon build-up), but a small round plastic part (green and
white) located in the egr control box near the firewall. - Paul.
On Tue, 03 Apr 2007 22:07:33 -0700, jim beam
I'm working on the same problem with my '94 Accord.I traced it down to
the EGR control solenoid valve.The solenoid will work when jumped
electrically,but not supplying vaccum to the EGR valve.The ports are
very small and i don't suspect it would take much to plug them.I'll
let you know how i make out with mine.I may take the solenoid apart
first to check for restrictions (gotta bend back the factory crimps)
if not,i'll just swap it out with another.
BTW,You can download several service manuals from
you don't need to do that. just use a piece of rubber hose on the
diaphragm, suck back to open the valve, then pinch off the hose. it'll
stay open if it's working properly, /and/ it'll allow you to get a
scraper in there to clean out the orifice. that's all you need to do -
no disassembly required.
One more thing to check for:
The ECU will also throw the EGR code if the EGR valve doesn't respond
fast enough, even though the system may otherwise be fine. After
testing just about every possible aspect of the circuit, I wound up
drilling out the solenoid metering orifices (located in the hose
attachment risers) a few thousandths. Problem fixed!
We changed from the stock fuel cap over to a locking one, because of
thefts of gas in our neighborhood, that is a very safe one, but, the gas
prices can drive the animals to stupid acts. We have video surveillance
cams all over our home...
Anyway, the warning lights came on that the O2 or EGR was bad.
Seems that the Oxygen sense system also measures vacuum or pressure in
the fuel vapor re-circulatory system. Just changing the fuel cap (and,
it might be vented instad of sealed/non-vented) caused warning
I now really believe in checking the cap, the vacuum lines, before I
start into the expensive parts!
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