car shakes at a complete stop

"GDB" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@localhost.talkaboutautos.com:

Do you have a carb or fuel injection? you probably need a good clean of the carb or the throttle body and EACV.

Automatic transmission, I presume? If so, the rear engine mount may be the same as on my daughter's '93 and is a vacuum controlled hydraulic mount. You can tell by looking for the control solenoid, mounted on the center of the firewall about 6 inches below the hood. A single connector comes from the passenger side (left hand drive) and two hoses attach to the bottom from the driver's side. The solenoid applies vacuum when the engine is warm and idling (and when in gear, at least) to soften the mount.

I just went through the diagnostics on her car, and in this case the control rod for the valve on the mount itself is gummed up. It will move (and the idle smooths out) if I help it with my finger but it lacks the mojo to move itself. My partner used to work at a Porsche/Audi dealership and changed out a lot of the same sort of mount on Audis, so I know they also have a significant failure rate... I'm lucky so far. Best price I found on the 'net for the mount is $145 US. If clean and lube won't fix it, replacement is in my future.

I'm trying to get pictures as I go, and the solenoid was easy. The mount is scarcely visible at all; I have tried to get it from underneath but haven't found a clear shot at it yet. I sure don't want to remove the mount to get oil on the shaft, either.

Mike

"GDB" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@localhost.talkaboutautos.com:

Check your car's RPM at idle. Mine runs around 1000 RPM's at idle and does fine. It recently dropped to 500 RPM and shook badly. A little adjustment to the idle screw remedied the problem. What is the RPM reading at idle?

The engine mounts are a distinct possibility. I had an 88 Accord myself. Nearly all the vibrations stopped when the engine mounts were replaced.

My daughter's '93 Accord (200K+ miles) has been doing that too, and the rear mount (the hydraulic one) is to blame. The valve works okay except the vacuum doesn't have enough oomph to rotate the control rod. It works if I reach under there and give it a bit of help from my fingertip. If oil doesn't fix it (how am I going to get to that?) I guess it is time for a new $200 mount.

Note that this applies only to auto tranny models.

Mike

thank you all for your tips, it was my rear engine mount that cause the problem thank you once again.

Thanks for the feedback!

Mike