My Honda Paint Job is Lookin BAAD -- Help (Hachiroku?)

I said Hachiroku because I saw on another thread that you had some sort of extra-strong, almost paint-eating cleaner you were using on a Matrix -- there was something about an old man crapping his pants too, but
that's not the focus here.
My 208,000 miles and counting 1992 Honda Accord sedan runs like new. Cold AC, no warning lights, good power, and generally a supurb LX model.
Looks are something different. Working in a big city as I do, there's a lot of pollution and general filth that is really starting to eat at my car. In fact, a few weeks ago I actually found the beginnings of a RUST SPOT * sob *.
I want my dependable Honda, with its titanium white paint job, to look as good on the outside as it runs on the inside. Now, I am very leery of getting a new paint job.
Could I use that extra-strong cleaner to clear away the almost-embedded grease/oil stains from weekend mechanics such as myself , VOC chemical stains, etc without seriously ruining my paint job? There are numerous nicks I suppose from road tar, rocks, etc ... but don't ya think if I cleaned the hell out of it then put a really strong coat of wax on it, that it would still look alot better? Also, any ideas for patching those miniscule little chips and those dirty looking wrinkle features? And how do I exterminate that confounded little rust spot I found near the rear wheel well?
I wanna push at least 500,000 mi before I abandon this dependable lady... and she just laughs at me when I take her to the car wash (hand wash, laser, or brush... I'm such a DIY freak) help!!
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I want an answer NOW
Learning Richard wrote:

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Waiving the right to remain silent, "Learning Richard"
Honda paint (at least the paint from Japan) has always sucked.
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Larry J. wrote:

Brilliant solution!
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said:

I agree.

The solution is to repaint.(No other way,AFAIK)
Use a different paint manufacturer. Maybe an acrylic paint instead of the Honda lacquer.
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Jim Yanik
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That spot you found is rust most likely eating its way out, not in. Water gets into the arch fold and starts rust on the inside. The only treatment is to reseal the fold with silicon on the outside, grind out the spot and either weld or fill with bondo, AND get into the inside wheel arch to treat the rust there. There'll be more than you see on the outside.
Stewart DIBBS
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Stewart DIBBS wrote:

Would it make more sense to do all of that, or to cruise the local junkyards / ebay for those parts?
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On Fri, 10 Jun 2005 15:58:51 -0700, Learning Richard wrote:

Yer talking right around the rear wheel, right? This means buying a 1/4 panel and welding it in! And anything in a YunkJard is probably rusted as bad or on it's way! Grinding, filling and sealing is the easier method. How are you at sculpting or staying between the lines?
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I seem to have come in late here. My news provider does not have the original posts in this thread.
I gather the rust you speak of is at the rear of the rear wheel arch, right where it meets the bumper skin.
If so, this rust is fatal and you will never get rid of it. The rust starts from the INSIDE. There are at least four panels welded together at this location, and the combination of pinchwelds and enclosed surfaces means lots of condensation and rain collecting there.
By the time you see it, the rust has taken permanent hold. You can do whatever you like on the outside, but it will ALWAYS come back. This is true for any vehicle with similar construction. Repair is a waste of money and time.
The solution? www.rustcheck.com www.krown.com From NEW. Odd that this is unknown to Americans and Britons, despite the astonishing efficacy of the treatment. It costs $110Cdn per year, but by God it works. Believe you me. http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/readersrides/tegger / Except for the hood and roof (stone chips) and left front fender, that's all original paint you see. 14 years and almost 250K miles.
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TeGGeR wrote:

Wow, very nice condition. My car isn't exactly about to fall apart on the outside -- aside from the little rust spot (I think I'm the only one who can see it right now) the body is smooth, one tiny ding on a door and the stone chips which I really wish I could get rid of...
Can't wait to get down with that 3M stuff Hachiroku recommended on Sunday... I'll post pics if it goes well. Meanwhile I'm going to check into those rusty links you posted ;)
Tx
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TeGGeR wrote:

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/readersrides/tegger/91670006.jpg
Yikes... is that a seat cover I see? That car reminds me of my old 1986 Honda Accord -- made it to 276,000 before I acquired my '92 Accord and gave her away.
Those model year Acuras are still head turners.
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Yep. Better that than have the outside bolster wear through. That seat is brand-new under the cover. So said the appraiser, too. Today I finally got the report, but the appraiser made a few mistakes, so it's going to be a few days before I have a final report with corrections. Will post it when I get it.

I'm up to 248,022 miles as of today. 2K per quart of oil. Just passed smog for the third time with no work needed. http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/91_integra_emissions.html
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On Sat, 11 Jun 2005 02:51:02 +0000, TeGGeR wrote:

It probably has something to do with VOC contents, certain chemicals banned in the US or the fact that Rusty Jones and Ziebart went belly-up 'cause their stuff just didn't work and us down here just aren't buying it any more.
Where can I get some Cosmoline...
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hachiroku wrote:

Alas, this leads me back to politics. The EPA is so weakened at this point that you can see the pink skies once again hovering over all of the chemical plants in the US....

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Ziebart was selling the gummy or tarry stuff, which doesn't work.

Most people up here don't buy the stuff either. And then their cars turn into lace doilies.
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On Sun, 12 Jun 2005 14:21:05 +0000, TeGGeR wrote:

My Supra seems to have weathered the years well...whomever Ziebarted it must have done it RIGHT!

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TeGGeR wrote:

that's one impressively maintained car!
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On Sat, 11 Jun 2005 17:18:26 -0700, jim beam wrote:

ESP for Black!!!
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