Which direction to loosen crankshaft pully bolt?

I have to take off this pully to replace the timing belt. Is is regular threaded (counter clockwise to loosen)? or reverse threaded (clockwise to loosen)?
Thanks for you help!
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reid wrote:

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I’m new here and have gone thru the all the messages I can see for 96 and 97 accords without seeing the "direction" for this huge bolt. Even the manual doesnt say, which makes me guess it’s a normal threaded bolt. But with the amount of force needed, I’d hate to start the wrong direction, and believe many of you have already done this. Thanks,
"jim beam" wrote: > reid wrote: > > I have to take off this pully to replace the timing belt. > Is is > > regular threaded (counter clockwise to loosen)? > > or reverse threaded (clockwise to loosen)? > > Thanks for you help! > > > google this group - regular question.
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Yep, it's normal thread, that's why the huge torque. When you reinstall it, don't leave it too loose or it will undo itself.
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reid wrote:

it's normal righty tighty. if you couldn't find it, it was because you were just looking just for accords - all honda motors are the same in this regard.
be warned - these bolts get /real/ tight.
#1 best solution is a high torque air impact fixed to a high volume air supply.
#2 is use a 3/4" drive and a holding tool like you'll see at http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/cranktool/index.html . i have a 3/4" breaker bar, 16" extension [gets you outside the wheel well], 3/4"F>1/2"M adapter and a 17mm impact socket - bolts come right off with that!
#3 is run the risk of injury, car damage and tool breakage with 1/2" drive tools and cheater bars.

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This bolt is right-hand threaded, so yes, it loosens by turning counterclockwise. It is, howevever, often notoriously tight. Some options for freeing it:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/cranktool/index.html
http://home.earthlink.net/~honda.lioness/id6.html
Would you please give your model of Honda and miles on it in the future, for info purposes in case this discussion proceeds further?

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to TeGGeR's site will give you the whole run-down.
I do want to mention that the crank turns CCW, unlike most engines. Don't turn it CW in trying to get the &$#! bolt loose and don't try the trick of putting the cheater bar on a jack stand and bumping the starter... the cheater bar will just whack the fender well.
I found a 500 ft-lb impact with 90 psi right at the tool got mine loose after a bit of trying.
Mike
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