Sticky high beams on a Sonata

Don't experience any of those problems with my 2011.

I am sure progress has been made in 5 years. How cold was it where you live?

1) People in the frozen north often put cardboard in front of the radiator. Its SOP. Need warm water for heat. 2) The grease in the switch probably turned hard. 3) Clutch, I don't know. Probably more hard grease.

? "Voyager" wrote

My 07 and '10 have great heaters. Love that remote starter on days like this too. After 10 minutes I got in and was quite comfy at -10 outside. Couldt he V-6 use a different heater coil? Seems doubtful, but possible.

Did not use the high beams, but I'll try in in the morning. It will still be below zero.

I put new wiper blades on today too. The originals are 13 months and not doing a good job with the road spray. Topped off the fluid with the yellow Prestone stuff. Works much better than the blue when really cold.

I suspect it unlikely also, but my I-4 has been a marginal heater/defroster/air conditioner from day one. The dealer could find nothing wrong, but it is far inferior to my other vehicles.

For example, at 0 I can drive my 1994 Chevy Pickup with the heat on high and the fan OFF and still be reasonably comfortable. If I turn the fan on the lowest of its 4 speeds, it will quickly be so warm I have to starting lowering the temp control.

I can drive the Sonata all the way to work with the heat on high and the fan on speed 3 of 4 and still not be as warm as in the truck. And it isn't like I have a short commute. I drive 21 miles which takes 30 minutes give or take depending on traffic.

Did you get a chance to try the high beams? I have not had a problem since, but then it has been above zero every day since that -20 morning.

Matt

My 2006 V6 version is the same. I also run full synthetic in it. There is barely any heat and never any defrost action until the car has been driven for 10 minutes at a decent rate of speed.

I have come to the conclusion that the V6 is just so dense with metal and relatively low on the friction side that there's just not a lot of heat being made, and what is made is dissipated by the radiator.

Even in the summer months, it seems to me the engine does not get overly hot.

? "Voyager" wrote

I have the climate control set on 72. Inside of five miles, the fan is on a lower setting and the interior is at temperature. It only stays on high for a few minutes when it initially starts to warm up. As for the defroster, it is OK, but a small portion of the upper corner on the passenger side seems like it could use a bit more heat and the wiper blade can use a bit more pressure as it leaves a band not wiped well. Had this same thing on my last Sonata and brand new wiper blades. Somehow, that band starts about two inches below the tip of the blade and is about 3" wide.

At 10 below it took longer, but still warmed up to temperature.

When I remembered it was already above zero and I had driven a few miles. It is going down to zero again this week so I'll try to remember to try again.

Very little of the heat generated by an IC engine is from friction. By far the main heat source is the combustion of the gasoline. So, having a low friction engine would make a negligible difference on heat output.

I run synthetic in all of my vehicles and the Sonata is the only one with an inferior heater.

Matt

motormouth wrote in news:31932408-11d0-4be2-b957- snipped-for-privacy@y36g2000pra.googlegroups.com:

Something HAS to be up with your and Matt's cars. I am on my second V-6 Sonata (a 2006 and now a 2010 model) and I have never had a single heat problem. In fact, although we only got down to 0 here in NJ when Matt was -20, I was toasty warm even with the window cracked. I don't warm my car up and drive about 2 miles to the highway on-ramp. The needle is already moving up before I get on the highway. And I have the fan on a MAX of "3" until on the highway when I drop to "1" and keep it there.

Eric

In regard to the headlamps, If I had to guess, I'd suspect the switch. Perhaps the grease got a little thick. I haven't seen any high beam relay issues, and it's unlikely that a relay would just spring into action without changing the electrical input.

On the clutch, you may need a new master cylinder. Once in the late nineties and again about 5 or so years ago, there were series of problems where the fluid would leak past the cup washer in the clutch master cylinder in cold weather.