1995 Honda Passport - Brakes question

I am in the process of repacking my front wheel bearings on my 1995 Honda Passport, 4WD.
What prompted me to do this is, one, I am a new owner of this vehicle and am
not sure when this had been done before. The car has 104K miles on it. When I jacked the car up off the ground, in an attempt to turn the wheel, it wouldn't turn even a 1/4 of a turn with moderate pressure. This concerned me. The 4WD is not engaged at this time. So I figured I would re-pack the bearings.
When I removed the caliper from the rotor, the wheel turns fine now. Freewheels great. Rotor looks a little "off"; so those are off to be turned or replaced altogether. Brake pads looked fine.
I am now wondering if the piston itself inside the caliper is just either sticking or is no good.
What is the going cost of new reloaded calipers as opposed to having them rebuilt. Which I will probably end up doing myself at this point. Just wanted to know if someone had a better way of going about this in terms of what the problem might be with the calipers obviously hitting against the rotor too tightly.
Thanks.
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you can get rebuilt calipers with a lifetime warranty at Autozone for $44 each. to get the parts to rebuild would cost 30-35 each. no brainer. go get the calipers

am
it
the
turned
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Cool. Now all I need is an Autozone that's anywhere close to where I live. :) I'm in the boonies, for sure.

Honda
and
wheel,
concerned
either
them
of
the
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I used the UCX rebuilt calipers <www.ucx.com> and was pleased with the results - exact same part number as the replaced part and only ~$25. per front caliper. These were only the caliper part - not the frame - so easy to replace.
Rgds, George Macdonald
"Just because they're paranoid doesn't mean you're not psychotic" - Who, me??
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I have a '95 Passport. The procedure shouldn't be all that different.
Make sure the vehicle is in 2WD.
1. Loosen the wheel lug nuts. Jack up the vehicle. Place it on jackstands. Remove the wheel. 2. Remove the brake caliper. Hang it out of the way with wire. 3. Mark the position of the hub cap and remove it. (White-Out works great) 4. Mark the position of the hub housing, then remove it. ("") 5. Remove the snap ring. 6. If there are any shims, make sure to keep them in the same order. 7. Remove the drive clutch assembly. 8. Remove the inner cam. 9. Remove the screws off the lock washer (mine were so tight that I ended up stripping all of them and having to easy-out them; so be careful or be prepared to just replace the screws). and lift the lock washer off. 10. Unscrew the hub nut. If too tight use a punch. 11. Pull the hub out slightly, then push it back in, to remove the outer wheel bearing. 12. Pull the hub off the spindle. 13. Remove the bolts which attach the rotor to the hub. This is pretty difficult without an air-driven impact wrench; but I was able to accomplish it with a good ratchet and a hammer fairly easily.
Installation is pretty much reverse.
DISCLAIMER:
This advice is offered solely as a guide. You are responsible for all of your own work, safety precautions, et cetera. I make no guarantees.
wrote:

am
it
concerned
the
turned
of
me??
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